Take it easy on me here, I do not know much about electrcal components in RV's. I just realized that I only have a converter with battery charger and no inverter. To be exact I have a MagneTek 6332.
It seems to work pretty good but I am wondering if it is possible to swap for a unit that has an inverter and maybe a little better charger. Is that possible, and if so is it an easy swap?
Can someone recommend a decent unit that will get the job done for as cheap as possible?
Another question. If I decide to just keep what I have is there a need to have a fuse wired in the positive battery connection? I was just cleaning up some connections and noticed the fuse up by the battery that looked like it had been installed later on with some wire nuts. If I need it how many amps should the fuse be?
I just replaced mine with a Progressive Dynamics model that is a drop-in replacement for the old WFCO I had. I believe that PD makes a direct replacement for Magnetek also. Talk to Randy at Best Converter, he's an expert on RV electric. The PD converter has 4-stage charging and enables much better battery life and faster charging when boondocking. Be sure to match the unit size with the size you have now (ie 40A, 55A, etc.)so you don't overload the wiring.
I'm not aware of one with an inverter built in, but I added one with a small 15A transfer switch by the fuse panel. So I can power a whole circuit with the inverted when then on battery power, so I can watch TV, use the computer, etc.
The fuse by the batter is for the charging circuit, it's typically 30A.
Also consider posting more questions on this over in Tech Issues, a lot of guys that really know electricity there.
I'm not familiar with your converter but don't think it is one of the better ones. Preferably you want what is called a three stage smart converter/charger. Check the manual for your converter.
Installing a separate inverter for whatever you want to operate is probably more cost effective. Inverter/chargers are expensive.
Any and all hot leads from the battery should be fused near the battery. The purpose is to protect the wiring. Fuses are based on the wire size, for a rule of thumb;
12 gauge = 20 amp
10 gauge = 30 amp
8 gauge = 40 amp
There is no advantage to have a fuse substantially larger than the converter output no matter what gauge wire you have.
The one exception is that the lead to the break-a-way switch is often not fused but it is generally a very short run of wire.
I just replaced the same exact converter with a Power Dynamics 4645 converter and could not be happier.I originally went with a WFCO conveter but that was junk that never went into boost mode right out of the box. I also upgraded my wiring to 4 AGW. to help with the upgrade.