In a previous thread, someone mentioned that the only way to get rid of the oxidation and restore the original finish was to sand, rubbing compound, and polishing. Everyone jumped all over his case. Stated he was not qualified to comment, as he had never used it. The claim was "why go to all that work?". That kind of response turned out to be very misleading. The claim seems to be that somehow magic will happen. Especially when you observe that getting a surface wet really does hide the oxidation till the surface dries. The claims tend to overstate the results, suggesting that it is a universal "fix". I'm really just trying to give this a reality check and show what type of circumstance really does require " all that work". I also am suggesting that light colors - which is usually the case with older coaches, are much easier to deal with.
The Flying Fortress
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
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to the op, everyone has an opinion, and is entitled to it. some are different from others.
i have used both with good results. others have not. not every opinion is the final say, and is not entitled to say that.
I'm not clear on the top finish, but I think theres a difference in that boat gelcoat & the clear coat paint on out m/hs, I could stand corrected though.
Fiberglass, no matter whether on a boat or RV, had a final "Gelcoat" coating. Even the Corvette came with Gelcoat. Full body paint with clear coat in the RV industry is only a recent offering as far a I know.
Yep, that is how I remember seeing the boat hulls done. Wonder what the release agent is they put on the molds to keep the gelcoat from sticking.
So there is a difference in the gelcoat on a boat & the clear coat used by painters.
In a previous thread, someone mentioned that the only way to get rid of the oxidation and restore the original finish was to sand, rubbing compound, and polishing. Everyone jumped all over his case. Stated he was not qualified to comment, as he had never used it. The claim was "why go to all that work?".
On the contrary...nearly every post (as well as the "instructions" posted here), have made it very clear that the prep work is key, and that shouldn't be short-cutted. My RV is tan, with dark graphics on the lower third. The oxidation was horrible. The prep was alot of work, a full 8 hours, scrubbing the entire RV with BKF and a 3M scrubbie, 1 square foot at a time, but it did in fact remove all of the oxidation; without sanding, rubbing compound or polishing. And I will also say this: While it wasn't "easy", it was still "easier" than any other waxing/polishing/buffing that I had tried over the previous 10 years of ownership, none of which accomplished anything other than lightening my wallet.
Is RMP "easy"? Yes. Is the prep required easy? No, and if you thought it was, then you were reading only what you wanted to read and skipping over the rest.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!
I think one need to re-visit the place where the RMP was first used over at Fiberglass RV.com. The RMP was compared to Poliglow, and some even claimed that the RMP was the very same product at a much cheaper price. Any one who has researched Poliglow knows that they use a different oxidation remover. But I think reading the thread over there is a eyeopener. But the key is that they are using it on much smaller RVs. Check this out NOT Poliglow but time will tell.. And if one does some more searching on the www, you will find where RMP has been mentioned on boat forums, along with Poliglow and other similiar products. Yes, there are other products that promise to do the same thing. But, most of them cost more that RMP. And all involve prep work!!! It is not just wipe on and wipe off.
* This post was
edited 04/27/12 05:09pm by wny_pat *