Gale Hawkins wrote: WOW a RMP tread running for two years!
Looks more like 5 days to me.
07-24-2010, 03:52 PM
Sorry I should have said the better part of two years.
Just forgot about the retired math teachers surfing.
Wow, that is so wierd. What I see is the very first post was
Posted: 04/23/12 12:54pm
Wonder why we see two different dates like that.
This one: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/c........t-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html. It is the origin thread for Red Max Pro from another RV forum. First post was 7/24/2010 and the latest was posted on 04-26-2012! The thread runs 27 pages in length. Oh, it appears that they know how to keep threads running over there, instead of startin up a new one on the same topic.
Ya' know? when I get tired of viewing a particular post, I just stop following it. Really could care less how interesting or non-interesting it is, just stop viewing it.
hershey - albuquerque, nm Someday Finally Got Here
My wife does all the driving - I just get to hold the steering wheel.
Superman was an illegal alien.
Expedition - Suzuki Grand Viagra
4x4van wrote: On the contrary...nearly every post (as well as the "instructions" posted here), have made it very clear that the prep work is key, and that shouldn't be short-cutted. ...
Is RMP "easy"? Yes. Is the prep required easy? No, and if you thought it was, then you were reading only what you wanted to read and skipping over the rest.
I wish I could find the post/thread that I was referring to. The only thing I can conclude is that the negative post and responses were removed. Unfortunate that the responses were not allowed to play out, as my post and perception would make more sense. If one does read through the thread on FiberglassRV, there is a description of someone's work, who stated that once "prepped", their tan RV looked white. This would imply there was still a lot of faded, deep oxidation still left. Once they applied RMP, the RV came back to its original tan color - or so according to the post, implying that the product would soak in.
The one thing good from this thread, is that if there are any others who have perceived RMP would bring back the original color, or that oxidation can be "cleaned" off, that misperception should now be corrected. RMP/ZEP will just make what ever is there very shiny.
Dave
The Flying Fortress
FMCA F298817
'83 Revcon Prince 31' FWD
502 w/Howell/GM 16197427 ECM/Edelbrock MPFI,Thorley's & Magnaflows,
4L85E 4 speed, KoniFSD,
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Daveinet wrote: ...If one does read through the thread on FiberglassRV, there is a description of someone's work, who stated that once "prepped", their tan RV looked white. This would imply there was still a lot of faded, deep oxidation still left. Once they applied RMP, the RV came back to its original tan color - or so according to the post, implying that the product would soak in...
Any color with a less than glossy surface will appear lighter. Since a properly prepared surface will have a matte finish, a light color, such as a light tan, will appear white because light being reflected from the surface will be diffused. Restoring the gloss eliminates that diffusion. The same thing happens when one compounds a badly faded and/or chalked paint job. Once the oxidation has been removed, the dull surface will appear much lighter in color. Once the succeeding steps restore the gloss, the color will be restored to its original intensity.
I've seen the post you referenced and nothing in it implied there was any faded, deep oxidation left for the RMP#3 to soak into. The restoration of color came from the RMP#3 filling in the minute scratches left by the removal of the oxidation. The same thing would have happened if the poster had polished the surface before applying the RMP#3 (an unnecessary step, btw, that might impede adhesion).
Daveinet wrote: ...The one thing good from this thread, is that if there are any others who have perceived RMP would bring back the original color, or that oxidation can be "cleaned" off, that misperception should now be corrected. RMP/ZEP will just make what ever is there very shiny.
At no time did anyone (except, perhaps, you) say that RMP#3 will remove oxidation. Always, the key step has been to FIRST remove ALL the oxidation, any stains and residual wax, etc. THEN apply the RMP#3. Face it, you did a poor job of surface preparation, despite the preponderance of instructions that clearly state to remove all oxidation. Your junk science is nothing more than a pathetic attempt to obfuscate your inability to follow directions, assuming you actually tried to use the product.
* This post was
edited 04/30/12 04:50pm by Lady Fitzgerald *
Lady Fitzgerald wrote: At no time did anyone (except, perhaps, you) say that RMP#3 will remove oxidation. Always, the key step has been to FIRST remove ALL the oxidation, any stains and residual wax, etc. THEN apply the RMP#3. Face it, you did a poor job of surface preparation, despite the preponderance of instructions that clearly state to remove all oxidation. Your junk science is nothing more than a pathetic attempt to obfuscate your inability to follow directions, assuming you actually tried to use the product.
I never said that I expected RMP to remove oxidation. As a matter of fact, the first step that I did was to use Barkeepers Friend, which is what every instruction states. The issue is that Barkeepers Friend was not aggressive enough to do the job. The only thing capable of doing the job was sanding, which was specifically stated as not necessary in a previous thread.
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Don't do that! People will start posting like crazy trying to be the one who gets in the last word!
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