Dre, let me get this straight, you just put a new piece of plywood on top of the old one? Or did you put a 1 x 2 or something between the boards? I looked at my camper this weekend (and failed to take a picture) and I have those 1 x 1 on the top. I will need to remove the hanger bar that goes across the closet and probably the locking mechanism for the door. It seems I might have to remove the whole sheet in order for me to do the job w/o cutting holes into it. Then, I'll have to add some wood sandwiched between the 2 panels (I'd have to measure the thickness of the wood once I remove the sheet inside the closet.
How far does your mounting bracket extends? I'm trying to find one that extends a good 24 inches, that allows for un-mounting of the TV (I'd like to keep it home when the camper is parked), and that the bracket allows for locking (not allowing it to extend).
Alot of folks will mount a 24-inch square flat board (3/4-inch thick) to the wall first and use a spring wing toggle bolt in the four corners to hold up the board. You can paint the board to your trailer wall decor... then mount your 22-inch and up LCD TV mounts to the wood piece. The HDTV will hide the board pretty good when you get it in place. Nice and strong now mounted to the 1/4-inch thin trailer walls. You will to be sure you are clearing things behind the wall and I have always added a small washer between the bolt head and the wall. Works for us.
These MOLLY BOLT type screws work great too. You just drill a small hole in the wall and hammer in place. Then insert the screw to spread out the part behind the wall for a tight fit. The beauty here is you can remove the screw and the back piece stays in place. If you remove the wing nut screw above it falls behind the wall..
Might look something like this.... The trick is to get up a solid thick board on the thin walls and mount things the solid board. The solid board will spread out the weight...
This might not fit your scheme but it sure does give you a good solid area to bolt things too. Maybe you can adapt this idea to your situation. This could mount to the trailer wall instead of the cabinet wall maybe... This might help you get your arm where you want it...
photos from Google Images
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
POPUP PHOTOs-Pg52-Pg56
DammitJim wrote: Dre, let me get this straight, you just put a new piece of plywood on top of the old one? Or did you put a 1 x 2 or something between the boards? I looked at my camper this weekend (and failed to take a picture) and I have those 1 x 1 on the top. I will need to remove the hanger bar that goes across the closet and probably the locking mechanism for the door. It seems I might have to remove the whole sheet in order for me to do the job w/o cutting holes into it. Then, I'll have to add some wood sandwiched between the 2 panels (I'd have to measure the thickness of the wood once I remove the sheet inside the closet.
How far does your mounting bracket extends? I'm trying to find one that extends a good 24 inches, that allows for un-mounting of the TV (I'd like to keep it home when the camper is parked), and that the bracket allows for locking (not allowing it to extend).
I did remove the lauan board inside the closet. I replaced it by a half inch plywood. I did sandwich some plywood the thickness of the 1x1.
I had those 1x1 at the top, both sides and bottom. I did have to remove the hanger bar and reinstalled it after everything was done.
My mounting bracket is about 12 inches. Check on eBay.....I'm sure you'll find some 24 inches.
Dre, as much as I'd like to have some cold ones with you here in sunny Florida, we'll have to wait on that.
However, in the mean time, I was looking at this picture
and with Roy's suggestion, I could possibly mount the TV on the marked wall (the X). What could possibly be behind that wall? I know that right above that on the roof of the HTT, there is a rectangular vent. I'm assuming this is for the fridge's ventilation? If I drill a hole on that wall, what might I mess up?
If there's a vent on the roof above it, than, there's a pipe behind that wall which is probably for the fridge.
If that wall is made of 1/4 inch lauan, how will you solidify it.
One of the reason I used the closet, is if I screw up, it won't show (the screw up will be inside the closet).
DammitJim, looking at the picture, is what you're trying to accomplish being able to see the TV from both the dinette and sofa? Yave you thought of making a new "wall" to sit diagonally on the cabinet top? You can do all the reinforcing for the mount behind the false wall, run the cables behind in and then attach it to the framing of the existing cabinets and trim it out with some appropriate molding. DH built an entertainment center for our ROO and it uses a black solid surface (Formica-type) for the finished front. The flat screen sits neatly and the black solid surfact sort of fades into nothing. All your wiring and supports run behind the false wall, so it has a clean look and lots less cutting and adding. Something to think about. DF had a ROO 19 that had a similar set up and he was interested in DH doing something on that order for him, but he turned into a boater instead and sold his 19.
2013 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2604
2003 Ford F-150 with Blue Ox 1000 & Prodigy
5 doggies - We support Adopt/Rescue
Sam, you were the best!
Foxy is our new camping buddy
Offline
.JPG)
