There has been some good advice here and a few choices. This is for the OP. I hope you know that the levelers can probably take the weight of the coach, unless you have added a large amount. One of the things you do not want to do is lift the tires off the ground, as that is what the brakes hold from moving. Lift it too high and it could shift on you, including yawing to the side. You will want to put blocks under the tires, before you put them under the levelers. Get the coach closer to level with the blocks under the tires.
I would go with the suggestion of trying to level your pad, if you can.
May God bless your travels
Me, The Wonderful Wife
and two Spastic Border Collies U.S. Army Retired 2004 Coachmen Aurora, 3480DS 2007 Saturn Outlook, FROG
Kiwi_too wrote: There has been some good advice here and a few choices. This is for the OP. I hope you know that the levelers can probably take the weight of the coach, unless you have added a large amount. One of the things you do not want to do is lift the tires off the ground, as that is what the brakes hold from moving. Lift it too high and it could shift on you, including yawing to the side. You will want to put blocks under the tires, before you put them under the levelers. Get the coach closer to level with the blocks under the tires.
I would go with the suggestion of trying to level your pad, if you can.
Without a doubt, one of the best answers. Who knows why the the slab/parking place has a 12" slope but, in the event that is not curable, then one has to adapt to the surroundings. And the best way is to get some stout blocks, partially shaved to make ramps, and drive up on them to preliminarily do the best you can at leveling with ALL the tires and wheels on the ground. Then, if you have to, place some (preferably a single large one) blocks under the jack pads. In this manor, you have the stability of all the tires and wheels, the brakes (parking) are left in tact and in use, and, the strain of the frame is equal all the way around since the leveling task is evenly distributed throughout all the tires and wheels and all four jacks.
Yes, most jacks are capable of holding much more weight than the coach weighs but, there is still some unwanted stress by "hanging" that entire load. It's up to the individual to determine how they want to do it. But, some blocks, if needed, are a great addition to your leveling capabilities when traveling and or at home.
Scott
Scott and Karla SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 White Honda CRV EX-L,4WD w/NAV Toad 2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
Thanks so much for all of the advice, I'm going to forward these comments and ideas to my husband.
For the record, we don't need it level all of the time, this is for some temporary maintenance.
So far, my husband has modified the ramps again- this time with spikes to dig into the ground, to get them to stay put when we drive up onto them.
I'll keep you posted when we (hopefully) reach a solution.
jeanx wrote: So far, my husband has modified the ramps again- this time with spikes to dig into the ground, to get them to stay put when we drive up onto them.
That is beginning to sound quite dangerous if he is planning on going under it!
We have same kind of situation with our driveway - front is much lower than back. If I let the jacks do the leveling, they will take the front wheels off the ground (did that once just to see, don't want to again). Ours isn't anywhere near as bad as you describe, though.
I have to agree with the earlier posts, that for your parking place at home for the MH, it doesn't have to be perfectly level. Ours never has been, thats never really been a problem for us.
One rather 'redneck' solution nobody has mentioned: Is this parking spot concrete, or gravel/dirt? If its the latter, instead of raising the front so high, maybe you could lower the back by digging a small trench for the rear wheels to go down in? Maybe by doing that, you wouldnt have to raise the front so high to the point its unsafe?
I've done that (lowered one side by digging down some) a few times at more rustic campsites that are sloped. Sometimes its easier (and safer) to dig a small hole for the tires on one side than to raise the other side real high.
Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis Our Rig
Willald, That is a good recommendation and maybe a combination of four inches down in back and move that (and maybe add a little more material for stability) to the front leaves only 2-3 inches of leveling, to be 'close enough. That four inch ditch also becomes a natural chock block.
I have the same problem parking my Pinnicle in my driveway. The idea of having it sit there with the front wheels up in the air on a forward slope did'nt thrill me much either. I was able to find a set of Heavy duty Composite ramps weight rated to what I would need. I dont have them in front of me right now, but I beleve they are about 10 inches tall. They work great for the times I need to level to get ready for a trip. I beleve I found them at Pep Boys. Hope this helps.
I am a first time poster on this forum and have to say I highly disagree with some of what I am reading here. First off I have an off road shop and do suspension work on a daily basis. If you are lifting a coach or a Jeep from the frame and not the axle The tires are not carrying any part of the load unless that jack is not lifting that corner of the coach. It will still touch the ground do to suspension travel. Also known as unsprung weight. I would really like to know the circumstances of a coach skidding, or sliding on its pads. Unstable ground, Ice, Mud. I boon dock in a 33' Infinity and usually have 1 or more tires in the air after leveling and never had a problem.
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