nadkaw1957
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Just got back from our first trip of the spring... with the new Dometic 310 toilet I installed over the winter. I gotta say, it's one of the best mods I've done (and I've done quite a few). The porcelain bowl stayed clean and the foot flush was so much nicer than the hand flush... I recommend it, even if your old toilet is still working.
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Lynnmor
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I replaced my hand flush with a 310. I like it but it does seem to use much more water. One worry is that there is no overflow so if the valve develops a leak there may be a flood.
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mph_medic
Southaven, MS (Outside Memphis, TN)
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X2 here.. I bought mine off Ebay for $75 and was one of the best mods here too ... I don't feel like I'm sitting in a kids seat... It my new THRONE ... 
Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics...
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stormbytes
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The Dometic 310 was on my top-5 list of upgrades when I got my '94 class-A Winnebago. I whole-heartedly agree, well worth the money!
Mine was $149 shipped (ebay) bought fromt his seller -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealand-310-China-toilet-White-Color-/220874665106?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item336d27ec92#ht_2572wt_922
She has it listed for $179 now (free shipping) but I think if you asked you might be able to get the same deal since I bought mine very recently.
The only p.i.t.a is the horizontal water inlet (my previous toilet was a Thetford IV with vertical, left side inlet) which is proving to be a major pain to adapt! I wish they had flex hose of some sort, much like a home toilet has, that could fit between the PEX 1/2 threads and toilet inlet.
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austinjenna
Columbus, Ohio
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Mine came standard and in fact I am waiting for the replacement unit to arrive at the dealers. Mine leaks between the base and the bowl and is also loose at that point (hence the leak). I figured it just needed to be tightened up so I took a look and see nothing to tighten. I get the manual out and see its sealed at the factory and nothing you can do about it. Stupid design. Oh well its under warranty
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nadkaw1957
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stormbytes wrote:The only p.i.t.a is the horizontal water inlet (my previous toilet was a Thetford IV with vertical, left side inlet) which is proving to be a major pain to adapt! I wish they had flex hose of some sort, much like a home toilet has, that could fit between the PEX 1/2 threads and toilet inlet.
I went to Home Depot, bought a SharkBite elbow with pex on one end and 1/2" male thread on the other. I also bought a 20" stainless steel hose with 1/2" female on both ends (right across the aisle). I cut off the existing pex line, and connected the elbow to it. I connected one end of the hose to the SharkBite elbow, made a loop with the hose and connected the other end to the toilet. It made the connection easy.
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stormbytes
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nadkaw1957 wrote:I also bought a 20" stainless steel hose with 1/2" female on both ends (right across the aisle). I cut off the existing pex line, and connected the elbow to it. I connected one end of the hose to the SharkBite elbow, made a loop with the hose and connected the other end to the toilet.
I did exactly the same thing -- sans the Sharkbite fitting. I followed the existing 1/2" hose back to a T and removed that whole piece. When I tried to screw in my steal braided (I'm guessing that's what you meant as well) 1/2" FxF hose I couldn't get it on either end. On the pex side the T's threaded male has a tapered 'lip' and a similar issue on the toilet side of things.
Maybe I'm overcomplicating things. I'm reluctant to cut/modify the threaded nib on the toilet. I'm back to home depot later today and going the pex/crimp route. I've got a Flair-it female 1/2 threaded that will fit the toilet.
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nadkaw1957
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stormbytes wrote: On the pex side the T's threaded male has a tapered 'lip' and a similar issue on the toilet side of things.
The male fitting on the toilet does taper a tiny bit, but I had no trouble getting the stainless steel female to go and and tighten nicely; no leaks whatsoever. I used the Sharbite because I wanted to keep the shutoff valve that was installed inline in the pex. My T's are all crimped, so I couldn't just attach the stainless steel line to a T.
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stormbytes
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nadkaw1957,
On the toilet (threaded 1/2" male) there's a lip sticking out beyond the threads that measures at least 1/4" in length. If we're talking about the same steel, braided/flexible hose as meant for household fixtures, The 1/2" threaded female is shallow and has a black bushing in there. The lip that sticks out from the toilet's threaded male butts up agains the bushing and shy of cutting it (the lip that is) I don't see how you managed to get that on without modifying anything.
I'm actually addressing this exact problem this morning and trying to work out a game plan.
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nadkaw1957
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stormbytes wrote:nadkaw1957,
On the toilet (threaded 1/2" male) there's a lip sticking out beyond the threads that measures at least 1/4" in length. If we're talking about the same steel, braided/flexible hose as meant for household fixtures, The 1/2" threaded female is shallow and has a black bushing in there. The lip that sticks out from the toilet's threaded male butts up agains the bushing and shy of cutting it (the lip that is) I don't see how you managed to get that on without modifying anything.
I'm actually addressing this exact problem this morning and trying to work out a game plan.
Hmmmm - mine didn't have a lip on it... different production day, I guess. Is there a way you can remove that fitting and put a 1/2" nipple in it? Good luck.. let us know what you came up with.
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