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Open Roads Forum  >  Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)

 > Home made Gen-turi for $20.00

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bartlettj

Forest Grove, OR

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Posted: 04/30/12 01:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Please be careful about what materials you decide to use for the elbow- nothing galvanized or chromed. You can generate zinc fumes from the heat which are quite poisonous. Aluminized steel tubing or stainless is fine, but please don't use galvanized electrical conduit or water pipe.

RVUSA

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Posted: 04/30/12 04:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

msiminoff wrote:

Nice work mph_medic, that looks like a clean setup!

Photog101 wrote:

Being that CO usually pools in lower places, like basements (the reason that I have a Co detector in my basement), what is the effect of the discharged gas if you have the roof vents open?

The density of carbon monoxide (MW=28) is nearly identical to that of air (29) (i.e. it doesn't "pool in lower places"). However, CO is a product of combustion, and hot (exhaust) gasses rise due to convection. As a result of this convection, having the generator exhaust exit above the roofline is far safer than any location below the living space.

CO detectors should be installed in the locations where people breathe the air, and at (approximately) the height that their mouths & noses will be located... If you sleep or spend time in your basement (RV or home), then it makes sense to have a CO detector there, but that should be in addition to the one(s) in the living space(s).

Cheers,
-Mark


So Mark,

Whats your take on all CO2 detectors being mounted just off the floor? And all smoke detectors being mounted just off the ceiling?

msiminoff

Silicon Valley, CA

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Posted: 04/30/12 08:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RVUSA wrote:

Whats your take on all CO2 detectors being mounted just off the floor? And all smoke detectors being mounted just off the ceiling?

Smoke, as a result of combustion, is usually warmer than the surrounding air and rises due to convection. For this reason, smoke detectors are mounted on/near the ceiling.

I am not familiar with the use or installation of carbon dioxide detectors and I do not know what the source (hazardous quantities of) CO2 would be inside an RV.

-Mark

* This post was last edited 04/30/12 12:16pm by msiminoff *   View edit history


'04 Alpenlite Saratoga 935, 326W of solar, 300Ah Odyssey batt's, Trimetric, Prosine 2.0
05 Ram3500, Cummins, Goerend Trans, Vision 19.5 w/XDE's, Dynatrac Hubs, RR airbags w/ping tanks, Superhitch, Roadmaster Swaybar, Thuren trackbar, RS9000XL/MyRide


bartlettj

Forest Grove, OR

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Posted: 04/30/12 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RVUSA wrote:

msiminoff wrote:

Nice work mph_medic, that looks like a clean setup!

Photog101 wrote:

Being that CO usually pools in lower places, like basements (the reason that I have a Co detector in my basement), what is the effect of the discharged gas if you have the roof vents open?

The density of carbon monoxide (MW=28) is nearly identical to that of air (29) (i.e. it doesn't "pool in lower places"). However, CO is a product of combustion, and hot (exhaust) gasses rise due to convection. As a result of this convection, having the generator exhaust exit above the roofline is far safer than any location below the living space.

CO detectors should be installed in the locations where people breathe the air, and at (approximately) the height that their mouths & noses will be located... If you sleep or spend time in your basement (RV or home), then it makes sense to have a CO detector there, but that should be in addition to the one(s) in the living space(s).

Cheers,
-Mark


So Mark,

Whats your take on all CO2 detectors being mounted just off the floor? And all smoke detectors being mounted just off the ceiling?


My CO detector is mounted 3/4 way up the wall. My smoke detector is on the ceiling. It's the propane leak detectors that are mounted near the floor. Propane is heavier than air.

mph_medic

Southaven, MS (Outside Memphis, TN)

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Posted: 04/30/12 08:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went back to lowes and Took pics of the top cap (rain Guard) that I used to make my air gap .. All I did now was drill out the rivets and bent the three tabs together and mountes them to the elbow..
all pices are used for exhaust of heater gasses for they were perfect for the generator exhaust.. AND ON THE CHEAP !!!









Let me Know if I can help with any more info...


Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics...

1993 Damon Frontier Flyer


dieseltruckdriver

Black Hills of SD

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Posted: 04/30/12 09:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CO (carbon monoxide) is slightly lighter than air. Propane is heavier than air. My Arctic Fox has the CO detector mounted in the bedroom near the ceiling, and the propane detector close to the stove and furnace very near the floor. The way they should be.

Your build is nice, and I may try that myself. Thanks for posting.


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tmprkswyo

Southwest Wyoming

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Posted: 05/01/12 07:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bartlettj wrote:

Please be careful about what materials you decide to use for the elbow- nothing galvanized or chromed. You can generate zinc fumes from the heat which are quite poisonous. Aluminized steel tubing or stainless is fine, but please don't use galvanized electrical conduit or water pipe.


Stainless steel has a percentage of chrome in it. Depends upon the grade how much is in it. Chrome or galvanized should not be a problem at the temperatures seen with this mod.

mr300ce

Mojave Desert, Ca

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Posted: 05/01/12 07:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The 1" pipe straight off the exhaust connecting to the 3" pipe creates a 'venturi' effect (name..genturi), and actually pulls in the cool air from around the pipe. That cool air helps keep the 3" pipe fairly cool to touch, thus eliminating a 'sever' burn condition if someone touches it.

I am going to make mine out of PVC pipe, which is sturdier, and won't get accidently dented or crushed in the storage bay. And it will operate at a much cooler temp than the metal pipe.

I just don't see a need for a 'rain cap'. Extra parts, expense, and work for a not needed item.


Fulltime livin' & lovin' it in '94 Bounder 32h.
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RVUSA

Orlando, FL, USA

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Posted: 05/02/12 03:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bartlettj wrote:

My CO detector is mounted 3/4 way up the wall. My smoke detector is on the ceiling. It's the propane leak detectors that are mounted near the floor. Propane is heavier than air.


Huh. All this time I thought it was a co2 detector. Well smack me with the silly stick.

rockhillmanor

On the Road

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Posted: 05/02/12 04:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dieselgem wrote:

Nice job... But I would be very careful in use, I had a Gen-turi and the plastic pipe does not get as hot. I would think you need to exercise caution after you use it. It is possible for the metal pipe to really heat up.


Ditto

The Genturi pipe is not plain pvc. It does not get hot.

Also Genturi provides a diverted exhasut pipe for MH's that the gen is directly below a roof vent. How many DIY's take a good look where it is exhausting at roof level and what is in direct line with it? There is also a reason why they don't put a vent cap on the top of them.

I can run my gen for 4 days straight and shut the gen down and grab that pipe and it is not even warm. I think this is one pass on DIY that should be left to the manufacturers. Hot metal up against the side of a tinder box RV and god forbid a fellow camper or his kid walking by that would touch a metal pipe like that is IMHO a serious issue.

There is a reason they don't sell RV gen exhausts made out of metal.


"We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us".


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