(Of course we use Lynx chocks besides the Roto-chocks.) The Roto-chocks can loosen up and move slightly when the trailer is being auto-leveled and I have a feeling we may end up with one wedged wrong at some point.
Texas train I won't totally disagree with your thoughts, however you imply that the roto chocks help keep things stable. I think it's debatable how much help the Roto Chocks are actually providing with the rig being lifted off the suspension vs. a conventional set up where RV is being fully supported by the suspension.
I understand the way your thinking and I think I may have left out important part. I leave part of the weight on wheels/suspension ie; level then bump down left and right / kick tire to make sure they don't spin, "NOT the majority of weight but enough to be med firm. Agreed at best the rotochock's only subside forward/rear and "slight rotational" movement even on units without 6 point leveling.
The most movement is felt in point fartherest from wheels/pivot point. On our 40 footer, that is where the bed and washer/dryer are located (very front)Two things that cause trailer movement.I was begining to think I should have bought a front LR version. I do not however, do this when putting in storage, where we are not in it a lot but enough to tell the difference. With "this" We are happy. If you have tried and cannot tell the difference I am happy for you its a moot point!
2012 Cedar Creek 36 RE Touring ED, all avail options
2011 GMC 2500 HD Denali DMax 4wd Superglide firestone bags
95' Procraft V-180-C 120HP OB, 80# cust TM, side/down image sonar
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I small hydraulic leak and you can chase your trailer down the hill. At least with the wheels locked it will stay where it is.
Good point - I think someone just reported a problem with a leak on the leveling system on their new Redwood in the last few weeks. Not saying the rotochok is the only thing that works, but at least some chock.
2006 Ford F350 4X4 SB CC SRW Powerstroke 6.0
2013 Redwood 36RL - full paint - disk brakes
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