(Of course we use Lynx chocks besides the Roto-chocks.) The Roto-chocks can loosen up and move slightly when the trailer is being auto-leveled and I have a feeling we may end up with one wedged wrong at some point.
cherrykiss3 wrote: I have the 6 pt auto level. I use chocks. First on last off. When unhooking I use only the front 2 then hit auto level when it is unhooked. I do the reverse when hooking up.
Lantley wrote: Texas train I won't totally disagree with your thoughts, however you imply that the roto chocks help keep things stable. I think it's debatable how much help the Roto Chocks are actually providing with the rig being lifted off the suspension vs. a conventional set up where RV is being fully supported by the suspension.
I understand the way your thinking and I think I may have left out important part. I leave part of the weight on wheels/suspension ie; level then bump down left and right / kick tire to make sure they don't spin, "NOT the majority of weight but enough to be med firm. Agreed at best the rotochock's only subside forward/rear and "slight rotational" movement even on units without 6 point leveling.
The most movement is felt in point fartherest from wheels/pivot point. On our 40 footer, that is where the bed and washer/dryer are located (very front)Two things that cause trailer movement.I was begining to think I should have bought a front LR version. I do not however, do this when putting in storage, where we are not in it a lot but enough to tell the difference. With "this" We are happy. If you have tried and cannot tell the difference I am happy for you its a moot point!
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avvidclif1 wrote: I small hydraulic leak and you can chase your trailer down the hill. At least with the wheels locked it will stay where it is.
Good point - I think someone just reported a problem with a leak on the leveling system on their new Redwood in the last few weeks. Not saying the rotochok is the only thing that works, but at least some chock.
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