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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Breakaway Switch Testing

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Huntindog

phoenix arizona USA

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Posted: 04/26/12 08:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LTCLarry wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

I read and posted on the other thread. The concern was that his dealer's tech told him that the pin needed to be pulled to exercise it to prevent it from becoming stuck.

I know that it can happen as it has to me. I managed to get it unstuck, but destroyed the switch in the process. Since a tech is stating the same thing, I surmise that he must see a number of this type of failure.

The switch is located in a position that can subject it to a LOT of road grime.
I suppose that since a lot of posters here only tow in pristine conditions, that their switches will be subjected to much less road grime than mine...so their need to test their switch will be less, as it will be much less likely to have a failure.

My camping trips are always centered around a scheduled event. The event won't change it's date on account of bad weather.
So my switch will always see a lot of dust from the miles of dirt roads, and can see mud, snow, rain etc.

Sometimes I have thought about putting a carbiner on the teather, it would only make hooking up a little easier, but that little easier would mean I would probably keep putting off testing the switch.


I posted on the TECH side so that I could get some comment of depth and experience since my experience with dealer information has not always been the best. And one other point, merely because someone has "credentials" such as Tech or PhD doesn't mean they actually know what they are speaking about. So I measure things I am told by getting as much information from as many sources as possible. Then as a somewhat intelligent person I make a decision.


Hi Larry.
Wasn't sure if I should be offended or not by your response to my post.

So I took a few minutes to read a lot of your old posts. It gives me a feel for where you might be coming from.

Happy camping


Huntindog
2010 Palomino Sabre 30BHDS
TWO bathrooms...No waiting!
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2011 Silverado Big Dually 3500 4x4 CC D/A
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Check out Rusty and her pups at www.bluecollarbrittanys.com


Brassica

Snow belt

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Posted: 04/30/12 12:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I presume that the brakes are activated by the "coach battery" in the trailer. Is that correct?

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 04/30/12 12:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The break away activates off the trailer battery. The service brake activates the trailer brakes through the brake controller in your TV.


Bud
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wittmeba

Virginia

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Posted: 05/02/12 03:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Brassica wrote:

I presume that the brakes are activated by the "coach battery" in the trailer. Is that correct?

Yes, this is correct. Once the trailer and tow vehicle separate the brake power is provided by the trailer battery.


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Slowmover

Corpus Christi, Texas

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Posted: 05/02/12 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The breakaway switches are cheap. And cheaply made. Testing is good, but replacement every 3-5 years is also good. Its' functional value far outweighs the very low replacement cost.

I concur on attaching lanyard to vehicle rather than any hitch receiver point (as well as being longer than safety chains).

.


1990 35' SILVER STREAK Sterling, 9k GVWR
2004 DODGE 305/555 ISB, QC SRW LB NV-5600, 9k GVWR
Hensley Arrow; 15-cpm solo, 25-cpm towing

Brassica

Snow belt

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Posted: 04/30/12 01:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks, Bud. I was scheming that I could power the trailer 12Vdc from a battery under the hood of a pickup truck tow vehicle so that it charges when driving without the trailer. Now, I am sure that I am going to need a battery in the trailer. I could have three, I suppose.

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