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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Converting an older SRW StableLift into a DRW *PICS*

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4xMike

Shepherd, Montana

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Posted: 04/30/12 07:45am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

v10scott wrote:

I have the dually version of the Stablelift on my 2007 S&S camper. The outside measurement of the Stablelift is 107", My camper is 96" wide, I have about 3" clearance between the Stablelift and my fenders when I load. I can send you some pictures and other measurements if you need. Also if you call Mont at Stablelift, he is very helpful with any questions you may have.


Awesome!!!!! Thanks for the measurments. I thought 102 was the maximum width legal on the highway which is why I'm going so.tight in my conversion.

What are the inside.dimensions?. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated.


1994 S&S 9.5' SC-B, StableLift, 2x6V golf cart batteries, LED interior lights
2005 Dodge 3500 4x4 QC DRW CTD 48RE, Quadzilla 65HP Chip
73-87 Custom Chevy Crew Cab, EFI 383 Stroker, 42" SS/TSLs, SM465, Dual transfer cases
2006 PJ 18' 14k GVW Flatbed Trailer


Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 04/30/12 08:50am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I too think the 3 screw stabilizers that come with the lift were are too flexible. I have wanted to made a new set ever since the first time I used them, but I never have. I guess they are not too bad.

I considered the plates you drive over also, but I have never did those either. Never really had the need.

With bigfootford's help, I did make a wire remote for mine. I have never used the factory toggles since I made the remote.

Wayne


blog.rv.net - Your daily guide to the Open Road.
96 Dodge (DSL), 2500 (6200#)

1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), Stable Lift (w/remote), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke



NorthernLimits

Michigan

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Posted: 04/30/12 09:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

But you have to replace the under tubes to make them longer. Unless you are going to cut them in the middle and sleeve them to make them longer.





4xMike

Shepherd, Montana

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Posted: 04/30/12 10:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

NorthernLimits wrote:

But you have to replace the under tubes to make them longer. Unless you are going to cut them in the middle and sleeve them to make them longer.

I'm going to splice in 2" .120 wall DOM tube into the ground pipes.

NorthernLimits

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Posted: 04/30/12 10:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4xMike wrote:

NorthernLimits wrote:

But you have to replace the under tubes to make them longer. Unless you are going to cut them in the middle and sleeve them to make them longer.

I'm going to splice in 2" .120 wall DOM tube into the ground pipes.


Got ya. Good plan.

v10scott

Aurora, Colorado

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Posted: 04/30/12 10:30pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was concerned about the width also, but for the last 15000 miles of hauling thru the western states I have never had a problem. I have had a couple off camber situations that I removed camper and then loaded up a few days later and I was glad I had the clearance between the fenders. If it had been much narrower It would have been a lot trickier to load, (maybe it was more optical illusion than a real clearance issue?) I will take some more measurements and send some pictures in a couple days.

4xMike

Shepherd, Montana

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Posted: 04/30/12 11:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

v10scott wrote:

I was concerned about the width also, but for the last 15000 miles of hauling thru the western states I have never had a problem. I have had a couple off camber situations that I removed camper and then loaded up a few days later and I was glad I had the clearance between the fenders. If it had been much narrower It would have been a lot trickier to load, (maybe it was more optical illusion than a real clearance issue?) I will take some more measurements and send some pictures in a couple days.


Cool, thanks. I still think I want to keep it at 102 just to be safe, but I'll peek at your pictures & measurements when you can get them and decide which way I will go for sure. By my tape, 102" outside width leaves me about 1" of room on each side of the fenders, so it will be threading a needle for sure.

I was going to buy the steel today but couldn't get away from the office to do it, so I will wait until probably Friday and get started on Saturday.

FishPOET

La Habra, CA

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Posted: 05/01/12 08:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When using the Stablelift to stabilize the TC while on the truck and without the stabilizers there is side to side movement.

Some Stablelifts came with diagonal bracing that solved the side to side movement but that is no longer part of the system?

NorthernLimits wrote:

I found that the 3 screw stabilizers that come with the lift were too flexy. I made a new set with 5/8 threaded rod and it was super.


Reddog1 wrote:

I too think the 3 screw stabilizers that come with the lift were are too flexible. I have wanted to made a new set ever since the first time I used them, but I never have. I guess they are not too bad.


Why in the world do we have to upgrade the stabilizers to 5/8 to actually stabilize the lift? Why does it not come with 5/8 from the manufacturer? And it still doesn’t solve the side to side movement associated with using the Stablelift with the camper on the truck.

NorthernLimits wrote:

Weld some tread plate on where the tires drive over the tube. It will save you when the tires are wet and/or muddy.


Really? Post sale fabrication is needed to make the product work properly?

v10scott wrote:

I have the dually version of the Stablelift on my 2007 S&S camper. The outside measurement of the Stablelift is 107”


Do you understand the DOT implications of traveling with a 107” wide vehicle on the highway? Permits are necessary for each state travelled in and you must validate the permit in each state after crossing the state line. Wide load signs must be used front and rear of your vehicle. Red flags must be used on all 4 corners of your vehicle.

Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 05/01/12 09:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FishPOET, I read your post to be that you personally do not like the Stablelift, and are reading into what has been posted. I paid a lot for my truck and TC, but have modified them both, to improve (my opinion) what was manufactured. My bet is that you too have done the same. To change something to suit your personal preference does not mean it is not a good product.

If you have a serious question on my post I would be glad to post an explanation. If you are just trolling, I have nothing to say. I sure hope I read your post wrong, if I have please accept my apology.

Wayne

FishPOET

La Habra, CA

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Posted: 05/01/12 10:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Reddog1 wrote:

If you have a serious question on my post I would be glad to post an explanation. If you are just trolling, I have nothing to say. I sure hope I read your post wrong, if I have please accept my apology.


You like Stablelift. I do not. That makes my opinions concerning Stablelift trolling?

My only goal is to provide my personal experiences with the Stablelift jack system so that others can make an educated choice on whether or not the system is right for them. If you choose to consider this trolling then maybe you need to rethink your position as moderator.

Reddog1 wrote:

I paid a lot for my truck and TC, but have modified them both, to improve (my opinion) what was manufactured. My bet is that you too have done the same. To change something to suit your personal preference does not mean it is not a good product.


If I choose to modify old products with new products I expect the new products to perform as advertised. I don't expect to have to make immediate modifications based on poor engineering. I expect top notch customer service from small businesses.

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