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 > 2002 Honda CRV toad

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OTTO

Western Washington/Gold Canyon, AZ

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Posted: 04/27/12 06:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2002 CRV and have also towed it approx. 50K miles. Just follow the steps and it will not fail. I think the only reason for the sequence is that that is how they are layed out gear wise and they want each gear in the tranny to be coated with fluid. I am NOT a transmission specialist but it's my best guess.

garym114

Bluff Dale, Texas

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Posted: 04/27/12 09:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RCtime wrote:

garym114 wrote:

To go through all the gears. If you overshoot N and go into R on the last shift go back to P and start over.
After you shut off the engine you must pump the brakes three or four times to bleed the vacuum from the vacuum assist brakes. This is usually part of setting up the tow breaking system. If you don't, the brakes may lockup the first time you use them after taking off.


I think a clarification is in order.
You do not have to pump your brakes normally as in just towing your
CRV.
HOWEVER, IF you are using a Brakebuddy system, that is part of the proceedure in setting up the brakebuddy, which I use.
I cant comment on other brands of brake assist systems.


There has been more than one case of CRV brake lockup because the vacuum has not been bled in non brakebuddy braking systems.
Braking systems apply enough pressure on the pedal to operate the brakes without vacuum assist. With vacuum assist and the same pedal pressure the brakes will lockup. Another post 2005 with Even Brake and a 2003 with VIP top brake

I have seen the same problem on other forums. If you tow it with a braking system bleed the vacuum assist before towing.


2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
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SCVJeff

Santa Clarita, CA.

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Posted: 04/27/12 10:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We tow a 2006 automatic CRV and the procedure is the same.. I asked someone about why the shifting and it has to do with properly filling all the channels and valves within the transmission itself to make sure things are properly coated... Bla-bla.. oK, makes sense.

For bleeding the brakes, as mentioned above, our Brake Buddy pumps the brakes to the floor 4 or 5 times as part of it's automatic start-up as it's pressurizing the internal tank. Once done, it doesn't get removed till we get to where we're going.


Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350


RLHAMILTON

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Posted: 04/28/12 09:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We tow a 2008 CR-V and go exactly by the book. We also are supposed to check the transmission fluid prior to running through the gears. I believe it is to ensure the transmission fluid is at the proper level. Don't forget to pump the brakes after you shut the engine off. I wasn't aware and went through two sets of rear tires due to locking up and getting flat spots.


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2008 HONDA CR-V TOAD
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hottubkid

SCHAUMBURG,IL

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Posted: 04/28/12 09:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Made it easy. Bought a 2003 CRV stick. Attach it kill the vacume. Put it in neutral. Unlock the wheel and go.


hottubkid60193@yahoo.com
2004 SOUTHWIND 36E Tow 2003 CRV


othertonka

Stockton, CA

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Posted: 04/28/12 01:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the U.S. Gear Unified brake system on my 2002 CRV and you do not pump the brakes before towing. This system has a attached Vacumne pump that activates and charges the brake booster when you apply the brake pedal in the MH, thus giving you power brakes on the toad. Now this is a 2002 Unified brakes system and maybe the newer models of the unified brakes system have a different set up. But I will not be taking the advice to "pump your brakes", with my set up. I beleive in following the brake manufactures manual, so look at your manual for your particular brake system is my advice.


Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
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obgraham

Eastern WA

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Posted: 04/28/12 03:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

hottubkid wrote:

Made it easy. Bought a 2003 CRV stick. Attach it kill the vacume. Put it in neutral. Unlock the wheel and go.

x2. With a 2006 CRV, the last year they made a stick.

RCtime

So. Calif.

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Posted: 04/28/12 05:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hope the OP realizes that he does NOT to have to pump his brakes to tow his new CRV.
This has sorted of drifted in the direction of PUMPING BRAKES.
Pumping brakes ONLY when you are attatching a brake assist system, which is a GOOD thing to do, whatever your brand preference.

Yes the stick shifts are a snap to tow. I cant remember when the last stick shift I had though.


Ron
2002 34HD Winnebago Journey DL, Cat. 330/freightliner
2004 Honda CRV - Garmin 1490t
Great wife & Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
TT/N

DanTheRVMan

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Posted: 04/28/12 06:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I tow a honda van.

I think you need to pump honda brakes to avoid getting flats spots on the tires due to lock up as mine have locked up also

I follow the same transmission prep and have 20k + happy miles of towing.

Do the new CRVs have sufficient road clearance? Honda's are excellent toads IMO.


Dan
Allegro Red 36ft

Mr.Mark

California/Tennessee

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Posted: 04/28/12 07:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We had the M & G braking system installed on our Honda CR-V. This system attaches the air brakes from the coach to the Honda. So, when I apply the brakes on the coach, the Honda brakes will apply at the same pressure.

We never have to pump our brakes with this system. A pump/actuator was attached to the master cylinder of the Honda. Nothing goes in the driver's compartment. Just connect the air hose from the coach to the front of the Honda and the other Blue Ox connections and we're ready to go.

From the other descriptions of flat spots on tires, etc., I'm glad we went with the M & G, never a lock-up problem.

MM.


Mr.Mark
2008 Monaco Dynasty, 42.2 ft., 4 slides, 425 hp clean-air Cummins diesel
2013 Honda CR-V EXL, AWD, w/Nav, SMI Air Force One vacuum-assisted braking

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