cekkk
Colorado
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Joined: 06/22/2009
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My previous WD hitch incoporated the coupler in its assembly and the coupler was never uncoupled for a year, until I replaced the hitch with an Equalizer. That may have something to do with the problem I encountered today when I tried for the first time to unhitch.
After raising the jack to take weight off the bars and removing them, I had only to raise the tongue off the ball. No dice. In the past with other trailers I might have to move the TV forward or backward a tad and the coupler will pop off.
But today I finally adjusted the jack so I had equilibrium so I could pull the pin out of the shank with my fingers. I then just drove off the shank. But even hanging on the ball, I still can't get it off.
I have no desire to try reversing that process to hook up! Any thoughts? 
'11 Eagle 320RLDS
Equalizer WDH
'02 Ford F350 dually, unchipped 7.3 PSD, PacBrake,
6.0 cooler, Ford AIS and Isspro trans. gauge
Replaced old AirLift airbags
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hmknightnc
Wilmington, NC
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I really hate to ask this question but
Did you unlock and release the coupler?
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cekkk
Colorado
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hmknightnc wrote: Did you unlock and release the coupler?
I'm fully capable of forgetting something like that. I take out about one set of steps every couple years. But unfortunately, I did
pull my pin lock so the release lever can move up and down, but it doesn't seem to be moving the part it controls. I have no idea what that's called, but if it is jammed, the ball is trapped, as it should be wehn you are pulling. Maybe a screwdriver working from underneath will do it.
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Retired Phone Man
Covington, Louisiana
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Look at Walmart or auto parts store for Blaster PB. It is a very good penetrating oil. Spray it from underneath and through the top and soak everything in the coupler. Let it sit about an hour.
Jim
2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab with 5.7L V8 and Tow Package.
2007 Gulf Stream Ameri-Lite 21MB
Peaches - Lhasa Apso/Mut Mix
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slickest1
canada
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I have had them stick like that before and I think it was rust. Like said above just spray it with a good penetrating oil and tap it with a hammer or jam a screwdriver up there and it should loosen up. Good luck.
2000 H.R. Imperial 38wds rr8r roadmaster, isc 350 cummins
2007 Chevy Trailblazer, Blue ox towbar
Ready Brake with breakaway.
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cekkk
Colorado
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Thanks, I've done the oil and hammer bit several times on other trailers but as this one is "new" it just didn't occur to me. I'm leaving town tomorrow to meet our daughter in Denver between connecting flights. Don't think I have any penetrating oil, if not I'll pick up some and report when we return Sunday night.
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opnspaces
San Diego Ca
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cekkk wrote:Thanks, I've done the oil and hammer bit several times on other trailers but as this one is "new" it just didn't occur to me. I'm leaving town tomorrow to meet our daughter in Denver between connecting flights. Don't think I have any penetrating oil, if not I'll pick up some and report when we return Sunday night.
I would lift up the release lever and then try to get a prybar underneath to slide the clamp back. Find a way to support the hitch head though as it's going to be heavy and you don't want it to hit your hand/wrist or worse yet your foot when it comes loose.
1996 Suburban 4x4. 350, 4.10 3/4 ton
2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH
1986 Coleman Columbia Popup.
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mpierce
Scranton, ND
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should be a nut under there to adjust the dog that tightens up. Loosen that as well, then oil, and tap with hammer to break loose. Remember to tighten it back up!
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jassrnj
Bath, PA
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Been there ... got to get the rust loose and lube it real good.
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cekkk
Colorado
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Finally got to it yesterday. Juiced it up with penetrating oil and in a few minutes, using a screwdriver from the bottom side, pried the locking lip back and down she dropped. I scraped out a mess. I think it was a matter of the ball grease mixing with the decomposed granite kicked up from our road that, along with the fact it had only been released once in a year, resulting in a semi-hard sludge.
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