I read my OP again and just realized I didn't mention WHY you need to mark the driveshaft. In case anyone who reads this isn't aware, it's important that it goes back in the same way it came apart (matched up) to avoid vibration/balance issues.
2010 Cougar 322QBS 5er
2007 Dodge 3500 SRW Megacab, 4x4, 5.9L Cummins, 3.73, 48RE auto HYPERTECH MAX ENERGY or DIABLO PREDATOR tuning MBRP 4" Turbo back Scangauge2 for Boost, Coolant temp, Rail press & Trans Temp
Torklift Stable Loads
I understand the value of the youngest son's moment to bond with dad, but if you want to stop wearing out your driveshaft's hardware, pick up a grease gun adapter made for tight places (cardan joints, some fwd axle joints) The pic below is a Lisle 90 degree adapter that screws onto the whip hose of a grease gun.
Hey Don....ditto bonding with your kids...put a fond memory tear in my eye,
as mine are long gone and expecting my first grandson soon !!!!
Pride of ownership, maintenance, love of DIY'ing/helping/etc, and the big one
being the ability to not be afraid of doing anything...just learn the HOW2's
On your picture of that grease gun attachment...you lost me...how in the heck
does that thing attach and work????
Kinda sorta like the one where a huge bolt is obviously welded to
a nut and told to take that nut off...
Turns out the bolt has been cut and turns to come off, but the
other end has the nut welded to it...forces or shows thinking outside the box...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Sitting here having my first coffee of the day, I tried to describe how it connects and after 2-3 wasted attempts (all seemed to confuse more than explain)
I decided the simplest way was to load Draw and make a simple diagram.
It slides straight onto the zerk. Locks in place with a click and requires a lil less than .250 clearance.
The back wall of the tube is a slotted teflon plate that keeps pressure on the ball of the zerk and the machined opening is just wide enough to keep it trapped while pressure lubing.
If my description helps, well that's good news. Now for the bad, I first thought it's mfg was Lisle, but now that I rethunk it, it could have been Mac, Alemite, KD, Cornwell, Matco, Snap-on...
Sorry, ole timers is becoming the rule of the day as well as KRS syndrome.
This style of adapter became popular in the late 70's and the last new one I purchased was from a mobile tool vendor in say... 2005/6. They do wear out after heavy use, but mine seem to grow legs long before then.
Edit: I just hate people who offer a different/quicker method, yet NO access info!
Wow, your jpg sure looked like the joint had a zerk fitting, must be an optical illusion, Sorry just tried to help. I'd follow the above posters advice with the bent lube needle. Still better that dragging the drive shaft out.