dly3388
Sarasota FL
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The floor of the camper by the door and back bed is soft like it got wet or something and feels like my foot might fall through.Do I have to strip the camper to replace the floor or is ther an easer way?
Need help thanx.
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SWD
Land of Living Skies
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For arguments sake I'll assume the flooring on your folding trailer is the same type of construction, wood over a metal frame, as in a TT. To fix rotten floors you need to peel back any floor covering, either lino or rug. Determine the size of the problem, remove damaged plywood and any joists and repair/replace. Finally recover with lino/rug. You should also find out where the water is entering your unit. That can be a bit more difficult than fixing the floor.
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beemerphile1
I'm 57, I'm not a
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A little late but maybe this will help. The one piece wood floor is laid on the steel frame and then everything else is built on top of the floor. You will need to either lift the box and replace the entire floor or do it in pieces. It can be done but isn't easy because everything is on the floor and fastened to the floor.
Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards.
- Soren Kierkegaard
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900/1998 Ford E150 4.6L = 8MPG
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bondebond
Searcy, AR
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Tim is spot-on. Many pop-up floors are made from a single sheet of plywood, osb or other manufactured material. I would actually recommend watching this Youtube video to see how they go together, and gives you an idea of how far you have to go backwards to take care of flooring issues.
Pertinent from the 1:15 minute mark forward.
It's going to be a tough situation. You might have to do it from the underside. Cut out the rotten section and try to cut a replacement to fit back in from underneath. If it has cabinets on top of it, I can imagine having to pull them out.
You'll then have to add some bracing (2x4, 2x6, whatever) under the seams of the replacement, that tie into the metal support beams. I would put a bead of sealant on the bottom side, around the seam. Having the face of OSB or plywood exposed is different from having end-grain (not sure I would call it that on OSB) exposed and drawing in moisture.
Once you have the new flooring stabilized, as demonstrated by walking on it, etc, inside, you'll want to fill in the seams created so that these do not transfer to the vinyl that you put back, or if you lay new vinyl.
I am a bit of a perfectionist, and a "if you're going to do it, do it right" but even I would give a serious pause to pulling everything up off the floor to replace the subflooring. I would attempt a patch first. If that doesn't hold, then it's a serious undertaking. Maybe even a chance to redesign the floor layout at that point. I hope not, for you.
This space left intentionally.
2006 Fleetwood Sequoia and mods...one of the tallest highwall pop-ups on the planet after flipping the axle.
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Downwindtracker2
BC
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I've replaced about 1/3 of the floor on Backroads#1,BTW Backroads#3 is a TT.It's not impossible. Ours had the leak under the door,it was a standard 8' layout with dinette at the back. I removed the corner storage,outside cladding,door, and lifted the box at that corner.Cut out the rotten corner and replaced it with pressure treated.Bolted and screwed it together. I built a new corner storage,out of prefinished cherry 1/4". And layed down some new lino.
Adventure before dementia
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RoyB
King George, VA
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Of course the ultimate thing to do would be to strip it all out and replace the floor.
I guess one could just double up on the visible floor you have now in the hallway and recover with carpet squares...
The brown area shown here is my visible floor area including under the table that is removable... I dont think I have any spot where a cabinet door might drag if I added 1/2-plyborad on top of the existing floor.
This is definately not a fix or probably not even a good get by for awhile temporary fix.
The door area on my popup is about the only place where water can get inside and this is only when I have the top up. None of the window flap areas appear to be leaking.
Mine is doing ok as far as I know since getting new in 2008.
I have no idea what is on the bottom of my floor but there is some sort of something that look like additional chip pieces of board material going all different directions. Its very hard what ever it is...
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
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Downwindtracker2
BC
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Nice one Roy,and it has a frame under it that doesn't noodle.Backroads trailer #2 was '08 Starcraft 2107.
Where Backroads trailer #1 had leaked was under the door sill. It was a '76 Bonair and I did the floor in '06 or '07. I had welded a abother frame under it and gave it 6 3/4" lift and 13' radials. The third axel,a 3500#, had electric brakes. So it was worth my time to do a piece of the floor.
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bondebond
Searcy, AR
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RoyB wrote:snip
I have no idea what is on the bottom of my floor but there is some sort of something that look like additional chip pieces of board material going all different directions. Its very hard what ever it is... Does it look anything like this?
If so, it is OSB - oriented strand board. Different manufacturers' recipes apply.
More info.
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RoyB
King George, VA
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BONDEBOND - Yup that is what it looks like... So this is OSB. They also have sprayed something black over this. Maybe that is a thin coat of undercoating or something like that. It is black on the bottom but you can still see all of the particle strips shown above.. The top looks just like regular plywood...
Thanks for the photo will file for future discussion of this...
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bondebond
Searcy, AR
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My first pop-up (Jayco) had sprayed on an undercoating like you describe. The current unit (Fleetwood) does not have any added coating to, but it comes with wording like "25-year warranty", not that I could make good on that since Fleetwood is out of business. And the warranty statement is actually from Weyerhaeuser anyway.
I am tempted to it with some undercoating, but am going to wait until I see signs of it not looking as "pristine" as it is now. It's a 2006 model.
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