Your best chance to revive them is to equalize them with a charge of 15.5 VDC or so for several hours. Read the manual for your charger to see if it has an equalize function. I know with my Xantrex charger, you can't force an equalize cycle unless you have a service tool or have the optional control panel.
narcodog wrote: The 9200 according to my r/v dealer friend is one of the best.
I agree. But.
The OP does not have this 9200 Wizard Converter in his garage, where his batteries were kept on the shelf. Also, it is not a good idea to have batteries being charged, full time, while a camper is plugged into shore power for long periods of time.
A good trickle charger would solve the winter storage issue, as well as a plan to equalize the batteries on a prescribed interval.
narcodog wrote: The 9200 according to my r/v dealer friend is one of the best.
I agree. But.
The OP does not have this 9200 Wizard Converter in his garage, where his batteries were kept on the shelf. Also, it is not a good idea to have batteries being charged, full time, while a camper is plugged into shore power for long periods of time.
A good trickle charger would solve the winter storage issue, as well as a plan to equalize the batteries on a prescribed interval.
b
When on shorepower, the 9200 (with charge wizard) is an outstanding long-term 3 stage charger, having a 15min 'boost' mode every 21 hrs (this to desulfate). Much smarter than any basic-type charger.
* This post was
edited 04/30/12 11:11pm by 3 tons *
idaho_camper wrote: Less than 2 hours, and 7 responses. Thanks all.
I called the local store where I originally purchased the batteries and they offered to test them for me, so I'll take them up on the offer. I'll keep them on the charger for a couple more days and then run them down. I do not own a hydrometer so no info on the water.
The charger than came installed in the camper is a 'Inteli-Power 9200 Series', model PD9245C (with built-in Charge Wizard). Is this a reputable piece of electronics? I've never been one to trust the stock, on-board charger for long-term maintenance -- which is why I've kept them in the garage (and out of cold/hot temperatures) for the past 1.5 years. But maybe it's a better piece of hardware than I took it for.
The question is, how will they test the batteries? Since they are deep cycle (designed for a slower discharge), a standard engine cranking type load test will not be a reliable test. A defined load over a 20hr period would be better. Check with Trojan.
My motto on our TC and our former live aboard yacht was "When ever you bring a gadget on board you know it will fail, but just not when".
You may assume these batteries will fail soon. Replace them now, why have it happen in an inconvenient spot? As has been stated, 5 years is reasonable life span, they have been stressed with uncovered plates, replacement makes sense.
skipbee
2004 F350 Diesel CC SRW 19.5" Rickson W/T 4WD
2005 Lance 1121 well found.
12' Porta-Bote alongside
All that glisters is not gold. All who wander are not lost. See us on YouTube" Living the Lance Life" 3 of 4.
To be honest, I would not invest in some Lifetime batteries, as they cost three times what a wet cell battery costs ($130 vs $375) and if you don’t have a good plan for maintaining your batteries, who is to say you won’t be in the same boat again, in the next few years. S.O.C. (State of Charge) is very important for longevity for batteries and if there is a chance, I wouldn’t take a chance.
b
Great point, Bryan, about cost. Lifeline AGMs are spendy, but they are also maintenance free. All you need to do is ensure they are charged properly--water levels never have to be checked. That's a big plus in my book.
However, I have to admit if my battery compartment was large enough, I'd buy two wet cell 6v GC batteries. They are cheaper, have 220 amp hours, and are true deep cycle batteries unlike most wet cell batteries that you find in the market today that are hybrids.
Unfortunately, my battery compartment is large enough to house just two Group 24s or two 6v AGMs mounted on their side.
* This post was
edited 05/01/12 07:45am by Mello Mike *
2011 Wolf Creek 850N/Polar Cub/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Morningstar Sunsaver w/RM-1 & SureSine-300 Inverter 2011 Ford F-250/6.2L/3.73/Bilsteins/Air Bags/Torklift TD w/Fastguns 2004 Jeep Wrangler/4.0L/5-spd US Navy Ret.
The battery shop will test the batteries with a relatively long, slow power load. They said they'll need them overnight. It would not be a quick test (in and out on the same day.)
I'm coming to the conclusion that many here have recommended. Get new batteries and avoid a non -controlled failure while camping.
Though your Trojans are 5 yrs old, sounds like they've not seen a lot of use. Exposed plates are not a good sign, but Trojans are very robust and may recover from this episode. Please report back on the test results. Results should include a sp/gv test per cell.
Hmm, a battery "test" from a battery dealer? Betcha the result will be "Oh sorry the batteries are no good. We can sell you a new set though..."
2002 Chevy 3500 DRW 8.1L/Allison
2000 Palomino B1500
...and the reason why I need a DRW to haul a Palomino:
2004 United 7x14 tandem axle enclosed toy trailer
2011 PJ 8x20 7-ton deckover equipment trailer
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