pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi Diane,
A re-manufactured Amish Unit. (which probably has nothing to do with anyone who is Amish).
When my absorption fridge dies I'll be delighted to replace it with a 120 or 12 volt compressor model. No more worrying about leveling and no more ultra slow cooling down.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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Chrisatthebeach
The beautiful low country of South Carolina
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Joined: 02/05/2004
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I had the same problem in my last unit, the fridge was a 95 model Dometic, I would have a few days of everything fine and a few days of not enough cold in the bottom compartment. I kept playing with the connection to the control board and that would make the check light go out and work fine for a little time. I kept reading online and changed the control board to one from Dinosaur Electronics and the problem went away, the original Dometic board was failing but not all the time (and yes the current owner of the trailer is still using it). Not sure if this helps you but thought I would throw it out there.
Unless you smell ammonia or see a yellow dusty residue in the back compartment your issue is most likely a control board or an issue with blockage most likely caused by out of level operation.
Chris & Dianne plus two boys, both of them are Eagle Scouts.
Jayco Designer 3110
F250 PSD 4x4 Crew Cab
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RVerDiane
Madison, Wisconsin
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Joined: 07/02/2005
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Thank you all for your information...I have decided to replace the frig and I hope it is the right decision.
DIane
Diane
Madison, WI
'94 Horizon 21 1/2'
towing '04 Honda CRV
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi Diane,
What will you replace it with?
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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RVerDiane wrote:Thank you all for your information...I have decided to replace the frig and I hope it is the right decision.
DIane
Sounds great. Quality once costs once but it is upfront. 
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Grey Mountain
On the rez somewhere in Indian Country
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Joined: 08/25/2002
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Look in the Class A forum under a topic entitled "Help" for a lot of information on this problem. Don't know how to do a linky, or I would do it for you. Maybe someone smarter than I on these things (like any ten-year-old kid) can do it for us.
GM
Discovery 39S Tin Teepee
Honda CR-V Toad
Jeep Cherokee Toad
Enrolled member of the Comanche Tribe
English Bride
Bichon Frise bear killers:
Lord Shonefeld von Reginald-Friese IV.
Lady Annabelle von Lichenstein-Friese III.
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RVerDiane
Madison, Wisconsin
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Joined: 07/02/2005
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I'm replacing it with another Norcold frig. I can't remember the model #.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi Diane,
Is there a Dometic that will fit? There seem to be far less reported problems with that brand than Norcold.
My next RV fridge will be compressor based. I hope that will be several years from now.
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RVerDiane
Madison, Wisconsin
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They said that a dometic wouldn't fit.
The MH is done so I thank you all for your ideas and information.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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We went with the $400 Amish option just because I wanted the kids to get some class shop time with absorption refrigeration. A new one was going to be about $1500 but they have have the life cycle as our 1992 Norcold 6162.
I did add the second 120v heating element in the 12vdc barrel when doing the job and put a pigtail on it so in 7 seconds I can plug it in for full time cooling as long as I have 120v power source.
One reason for our very cool unit is I started the current trend of using the Door and Window version of insulating foam in a can but that is detailed in my write up in a thread from a couple years ago. Without the foam I am sure we could have saw the box temps rise as some report.
I expect going with a new Norcold was the smart thing to do especially if you where going to hire the repair labor done. I know most shops are not going for a detailed fit because most RV owners are too tight to pay for the time it can take to get a tight fit of the new cooling unit.
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