Sollly
Salt Lake City
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Ok guys. I’ve searched till I’m blue in the face and think I have my answer, but wanted to ask you guys directly.
My ’98 Dutchmen fiver came equipped with a Magnetek 6345 (45 amp) Converter/Charger. L I have read nothing but bad about these things and have experienced it first-hand.
I put two new Costco golf cart batteries in it last year when I got it home and recently installed a Sunguard charge controller to the small “trickle” solar panel (30 volt) that was already on the roof.
Well last weekend the kids were trying to watch a movie after quiet hours and I had the small inverter beeping on low voltage then later that night the batteries went dead and wouldn’t run the furnace. It got down to 33 deg. That night. Not fun!
So I have been researching the problem and options. What I have concluded my problem is:
1. I installed the charge controller and hooked the solar panel up to my batteries. I was running the generator during the day to charge the batteries and the crappy Magnetek was sensing the voltage from the solar panel and not charging the batteries at all.
2. The Magnetek is crappy and installed a long ways from the batteries using too small of wire to get any useful voltage up to the batteries.
My solution:
1. Install a switch between the solar panel and the batteries to isolate the solar panel from the batts. while charging on the generator or get rid of the solar trickle charger all together
2. Purchase an Iota DLS-45 and install it closer to the batteries with the optional IQ4 charge controller so I can get a true 3 stage charge at 14.8 volts when in Bulk mode as it is recommended by golf cart battery manufacturers.
My main question is: Can I mount the Iota DLS-45 as close to batteries as I can get and just run A/C power to the DLS-45 and connect it’s leads (#4 size) to the batteries and disconnect the Magnetek? I wasn’t sure if anything in the Magnetek distribution panel or circuit board needed to be wired to the DLS-45 converter.
Input is appreciated and welcome
Thanks
Rob
Rob Solomon
Buffdale, UT
'98 Dutchmen Fiver
'04.5 DMAX, CCSB, 4WD, LT
AirLift air bags, Reese 16K Kwik Slide, Retrax bed cover, Predator Tuner, Isspro gauges, MBRP 4" Cat back exhaust, Rancho RS 9000X shocks.
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Matt_Colie
Southeast Michigan
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Joined: 10/09/2011
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Rob,
Your plan is the smart way to do the job.
I wouldn't bother with the switch, the controllers in both charges will really not interfere with proper charging.
I don't know the Magnatek panel well enough to be absolutely certain, but if you connect line power to one end of the Iota, and the batteries to the other end, I will do what it should. It doesn't need anything from the panel.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
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U.P. BLDR
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
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Joined: 07/23/2005
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Here's a basic wiring diagram for converter, battery, and distribution panel. The solar charge controller can be inserted at the battery or the distribution panel, basically anywhere you can tap into + and -.
I have a Progressive Dynamics 45 amp converter in my TT as well as a solar panel and charge controller. The solar panel does not interfere with the converters charging, at least in my system.
* This post was
edited 05/02/12 07:20pm by an administrator/moderator *
1981 Sunline 17 1/2SB - under construction
2003 Toyota Tundra SR5 TRD 4x4 4.7lt
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Sollly
Salt Lake City
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So same thing if run the Pos. from the converter right to the Pos. battery terminal and leave the existing wiring from the battery to the DC distrubution panel in the Magnetek?
Thanks
Rob
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U.P. BLDR
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
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Sollly wrote:So same thing if run the Pos. from the converter right to the Pos. battery terminal and leave the existing wiring from the battery to the DC distrubution panel in the Magnetek?
Thanks
Rob
That will work just fine.
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Sollly
Salt Lake City
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Great! Thanks again.
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NetBoy
Portland, OR
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Sollly wrote:My main question is: Can I mount the Iota DLS-45 as close to batteries as I can get and just run A/C power to the DLS-45 and connect it’s leads (#4 size) to the batteries and disconnect the Magnetek? I wasn’t sure if anything in the Magnetek distribution panel or circuit board needed to be wired to the DLS-45 converter.
You are on the right track. The old Magnetek converters were very popular and were used by nearly every RV manufacturered up until about the mid 2000's. But they are terrible pieces of equipment, and if you leave your rig plugged in a lot they will fry your batteries. They also do not charge your batteries nearly as rapidly as the newer smart converters.
It is fine to re-position the new smart converter near your batteries, but you still need to make sure the wiring between the batteries and your distribution panel is of adequate size to handle the maximum DC load of your RV. If your Magnetek converter is built into the bottom of a Magnetek distribution panel, you may also consider gutting the converter section and putting your new converter in there (assuming you make sure your wiring between the batteries and panel is of adequate capacity).
Here are a couple of photos from this site, where a new smart converter has been mounted inside a Magnetek distribution panel.
Have fun....
NETBOY™
---
Visit Netboy's Camper Project's Page = Lots of mod projects to my truck and camper.
My newest rig -- 2004 Thor Chateau 21RB:
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ExRocketScientist
Laurel, MD
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Joined: 11/11/2010
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In fact, they make kits specifically for replacing the converter in the Magnatek units:
http://www.bestconverter.com/45-Amp-Converter-Replacement-Kit_p_46.html
ERS
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Sollly
Salt Lake City
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Thanks guys. I would like to install the converter as close to the batts as possible. Looks like my cable run will be less than 3 feet. I already have #2 welding cable. Should charge real good.
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NetBoy
Portland, OR
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Yeah, I can second that.... Randy at Best Converter is a great guy, and will help you out if you have technical questions.
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