I you want to keep from wrapping your rotors replace the hardware, this includes slide and pins/bolts. Clean all areas of the caliper slid, but ONLY put grease inside the caliper slide boot and on the pins and only use caliper grease. If you add grease to the caliper mounting arm and anti rattle clips, (if equipped) the grease will collect dirt and cause the caliper to stick! Again NO GREASE ON ANY EXPOSED AREAS!!!
Not sure why anyone would buy or advocate buying cheep rotors, but that is the very worse thing you can do! Buy a good quality rotor from NAPA or another Quality parts store. Do not buy the cheap throw away rotors. Also if you buy quality rotors you CAN have them turned and in most cases more then one time.
The last thing you need to do, is use a torque wrench to finish tightening the lug nuts. Tighten them to the specs in your owners manual, using the two step process. Run the lug nuts down to the wheel lightly tightening, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Adjust the torque wrench to 25/50 # under the torque spec and tighten all lug nuts. Now set the torque wrench to the final setting and finish torquing the lug nuts. If you torque spec is 125# or less set wrench 25# under the spec, if over 125# set to 50# under spec.
As for the calipers ,if you place a flat blade screw driver between the back of the front pad (outside) and the caliper and use steady pressure pulling towards you you can push the piston back into the caliper so you can remove it from the rotor a lot easier. This will also tell you if the piston is sticking. As far as replacing or rebuilding, if you happen to have a set of caliper hones a rebuild kit only costs $5 to $35 dollars as compared to $50 to $130+ for a remaned caliper. A set of good hones only cost $30 by the way.
Don
* This post was
edited 05/02/12 09:09am by Perrysburg Dodgeboy *
Perrysburg Dodgeboy 2004 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab SLT Cummins HO
2005 Keystone Cougar 304 BHS
Chrysler the only one to pay back 100% of their loans from the Government. *The Old Car Company" still owes 1.6 billion. Is that better Chuckles
Also be sure to clean the hubs before putting the rotors on. do you park your Jeep on gravel? are the rotors rusting out and causing the shaking or are they actually warped from over heating?
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 11yrs
Daughter Marissa 10yrs
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I had an 01 Cherokee that had rotor issues from the get-go that nobody could ever solve. Tried stock and several kinds of aftermarket rotors, replaced hardware, etc... After about 10-15k, it would re-appear. After about 60k miles I tired and unloaded it. On my Tahoe I didn't even have to replace any pads till 85k, and that was the rear. Good luck.
2006 Chevy 2500HD 8.1 4x4 CCSB
2012 Eclipse Stellar 28SBG, Spring Over Axle
Make sure you aren't improperly torquing the wheel nuts, as that can warp the rotors. Also, make sure the hubs and wheels themselves aren't warped, and the wheel bearings and tie rod ends and ball joints are good. Often times a worn ball joint or tie rod end will vibrate under breaking if the rotor is even slightly out of round, where you wouldn't notice it if it wasn't worn out. Make sure you are installing the shim packs for the pads correctly and that you bed in the pads and rotors properly.
A dial indicator and a magnetic base can be a great tool for finding warping issues. Start looking for runout and loose suspension parts. It isn't always what you think.
I spent a lot of time rebuilding the steering box and replacing the kingpins on my '50 Chevy truck trying to solve a bump steer and loose feeling in the steering, and it didn't get better. It turned out that the spring shackles were worn out.
I understand your frustration, one of my pet peeves is vibrating brakes or wheels. I've test driven brand new cars that were just too sloppy in the front end for my taste.
Back again, I tore it down again, the calipers are fine pushed back very easy. The pads had to be knocked out with hammer. that was the problem, also it got the rotor on the right front so hot that it warped and took hunks of metal out. Took a 4 inch grinder with wire brush and cleaned the bracket that holds the pads and installed new guide clips. the pads move freely now, they were stuck before. Greased the pins and the new rubber guides that go on the pins in the brake kits. New rotors, pads and brake kit, also used torque wrench and torqued wheel lugs to 80 ft lb. On test drive all is well again, I belive it will last this time, before I didn't do the cleaning and the break kit and pads went in tight. Want to thank all for the very good information, I think we got it now!!
That's great to hear, there is nothing worse then a warped rotor. I will need to pull the rear rotors and have them turned after it get healed up. Drove the truck with the e-brake on all the way home from work the other day and over heated the rear rotors .
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