
	Already a member? Login here. If not, Register Today! \| Help

Newest | Active | Popular | RVing FAQ

Forum Rules | Forum Help and Support | Contact

Open Roads Forum > Tech Issues

This Topic Is Closed | Print Topic | Post New Topic |

Sponsored By:

bogen2

Edmonton

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2010

View Profile

Offline

Posted: 05/02/12 02:23pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

Just wanted to share my solar installation story with the good people on this forum. I started 2 months ago knowing absolutely nothing about solar power but knowing that I wanted a better way to charge my batteries than relying only on a generator when boondocking. So after many hours of research and lots of excellent advise from people here I was able to put together a system that turned out pretty well.

One of the main goals was price - my budget was $1000 and if I don't count the cost of tools I was almost able to pull it off. I have a 24' travel trailer and started with a couple of GR27 batteries that will likely need to be replaced after this season. I ordered most of the parts I needed online, although I did find some local suppliers for some of the more basic bits and pieces.

Here are the components that I used:
- 2 x 95 watt panels ordered from a distributor in Ontario: $400 incl. shipping
- Morningstar Prostar PS15 PWM solar controller: $116
- Trimetric monitor, wiring harness and shunt: $196
- Eliminator (Xantrex) 1000 watt PSW inverter with remote switch: $119

I chose the Prostar because I didn't want to pay the premium for MPPT to stay within my budget, but did want a 3 stage charger with temp compensation. I got the model without the display because I splurged on the Trimetric battery monitor. This was one of my best choices as I love being able to see whats going on with the charging from inside the RV. The inverter was just too good a deal to pass up - it was from Canadian Tire and was regular price of $299 for what appears to be a rebadged Xantrex.

I mounted the components on a piece of plywood so I could work on the wiring in the shop which made it a LOT easier to deal with. As I was planning on installing this equipment on the front bulkhead in the trailer's basement, there was no way I could have done all the wiring in such a tight space. I did all the battery cables myself using #2 welding wire and a hydraulic crimper that I picked up in ebay (thanks renoman). Welding cable is definately the way to go - its very flexible so you can make some tight turns when you need to.

I ran the battery cables and inverter ground through the bulkhead rather than the floor as originally planned. This turned out very well (thanks RoyB) and allowed for a nice short 2.5' cable length. I installed a low voltage box on the interior wall and modified a metal blanking plate over it with grommets to protect the wires. On the outside diamond plate I just drilled 2 holes and installed strain relief connectors to provide a (hopefully) weatherproof seal.

I built the solar panel mounts out of 2" angle aluminum. The original plan was to just do fixed panels, but I had time to kill waiting for spring so I started playing with tilting designs. I finally came up with a low cost and solid mount that allows the panels to be tilted in all 4 directions up to 30 degrees on end and 60 degrees on edge. I picked up some heavy duty steel gate hinges at HD and cut off the long end leaving about 1.5". So on the long edge the hinges allow the panel to tilt. On end, the 1/4" bolt that joins the mount to the hinge acts as a hinge pin. I used nutserts as suggested in another installation (thanks Golden_HVAC) to install a captive nut behind the hinge which makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the bolts that hold the mounts together. Made some supports out of aluminum tubing and now with a bit of crawling around on the roof I can change the tilt any way I want. I screwed the mounts into the roof with 1" #10 screws and caulked with self leveling Dicor.

Wiring was done with UV resistant #10 cable. This was about a 30' run to the controller, but because I am using a PWM controller the voltage drop was not an issue. Took the cover off the fridge vent and installed a grommet in the screen to protect the wires that run down the vent and through the interior to the basement.

I made a combiner box out of a weatherproof PVC box using the same strain relief connectors that I used on the front bulkhead. Built the terminal posts inside the box out of some heavy scrap plastic that I had in the shop for an insulator and 2 1/4" bolts. Screwed and caulked down to the roof near the fridge vent.

This last weekend I did the final tweaks and testing. I replaced all the interior light bulbs with LEDs to save even more power. Everything works exactly as I needed it to and I was able to plug the shore power cable into the inverter (after shutting the converter off at the breaker) and all of my 110v outlets had power. So to celebrate I turned on all the new LED lights and the TV, opened a cool one and finally relaxed. A nice sunny day showed me that the tilted panels were working perfectly providing 10.5 amps.

Thanks again to all who directly contributed and to those who have posted their installations - I got a LOT of good ideas from you. Solar can be done relatively inexpensively now that panel prices have come down - my total cost excluding tool purchases was $1150.

2006 Ford F150 Supercab
2010 Jayco Jayflight G2 23FB w/ Reese Dual Cam WD hitch
190w solar, 1000w PSW inverter, Prostar PWM controller

smkettner

Southern California

Senior Member

Joined: 03/21/2005

View Profile

Good Sam RV Club Member

Posted: 05/02/12 03:08pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

Not sure I would count the inverter and monitor in the solar "budget"
Looks like $516 +supplies to go 190w solar.

I really like the tilt panel mounts.

Thanks for sharing

2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something

bogen2

Edmonton

Full Member

Joined: 05/04/2010

View Profile

Offline

Posted: 05/02/12 03:18pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

You are right - it was a project budget rather than solar. However, without the mods for the solar I would never have installed such a big inverter or added the Trimetric. It was just so easy to add the inverter as part of the project. And having the Trimetric ramps up the geek factor which is important to some of us

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

Senior Member

Joined: 12/18/2004

View Profile

Offline

Posted: 05/02/12 03:41pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

Hi bogen2,

I would have not bothered with the trimetric myself. But it looks like a nice install and comes in at about $3.00 per watt. A great price in Canada.

Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.

3 tons

CA.

Senior Member

Joined: 03/13/2009

View Profile

Offline

Posted: 05/02/12 04:03pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

You are quite the craftsman Sir! I see lots of pride of assembly in this project. Very creative dual tilt hinge design, nice and tidy finish work throughout. Thanks for sharing...

3 tons

SteveAE

Bend, Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 02/20/2012

View Profile

Online

Posted: 05/02/12 04:47pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

bogen2,

Nice work and great job on the budget. Thanks for sharing.
With LED's and a conservation attitude, I bet the 190 watts will be just fine....especially since you plan to tilt your panels.

Have fun enjoying your system,
Steve

DeadeyeLefty

Sunshine Coast, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 03/28/2007

View Profile

Offline

Posted: 05/02/12 04:53pm

Link | Print | Notify Moderator

Good job !

+1 on those inverters - I've got a 1kW myself, though mine's the older one with the finned heat sink.
I just picked up the array for my build today.
That's why I'm looking at solar threads: opportunity knocked and I answered the door, lol.

Did you happen to compare the current you were getting with them flat ?

Project Glacier trailer build.