Gmanrv
Pitt Meadows BC
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Hi All,
New to the forum, have been a reader for a while.
I have a question... I had an inside rear blowout this weekend and it took out my propane lines and some wiring in the process. So the propane line is severed in several places, two to three tubes connecting to one.
My question is, should I tackle this myself or leave it for the pros. I am pretty handy and know what I am doing, but my issues are, jacking and safely supporting the RV with the wheel off, and I am cautious as it is a copper gas line and could be stretched and weak where I can not see.
Do the pros pressure test the line for leaks?
Anyway, thanks for any and all help
G
24' Class C
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snowdance
Yreka, Ca
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If you could do it really depends on how much you know about it. I have done it for years on many things so for me its minor work. Odds are you will need to replace some of the lines. To check lines is not a big deal. Most places just turn the propane on and check every thing with soap and water. Few places will add a gage after unhooking some thing in the system and watch for a pressure drop but few do it. If you know a bit about doing the job and have the tools or want to get them is a judgement call for you.
You should have a bottle jack that will lift the weight of your rig even if you do not do it. Odds are some point in time you will need it for some thing.. We also have two Jack Stands that are 8 ton for when we need to be under the rig for any reason. Some times just getting more room is nice. Bottle jack and stands should run you under $100.
Snowdance
We spent most of our money traveling... Just wasted the rest..
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TonyMin
Walnut Creek CA
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That happened to me before too. I had my plumber friend replace all lines with ridgid galvanized to keep it more safe. I didn't like the idea of having flex line that close to the wheels.
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Son of Norway
Denver, Colorado
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As long as you have complete access all along the line and at both connections of the section that was damaged (not always the case), gas lines are not that difficult to replace. I would replace the entire section. You do have to be handy with a flaring tool. Practice doing it on a scrap piece of pipe. When you are done check the connections with a soap solution.
Miles
Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO
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Matt_Colie
Southeast Michigan
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G,
Have you ever done any copper flares?
If you have, you have already mastered the most difficult part.
If you have not get (like borrow) a flaring block set and take a couple of damaged pieces out of the coach and practice. Three important things:
1 - Have a Sharp tubing cutter.
2 - Carefully de-burr the cut end.
3 - Do not over flare (both not too much tube and don't crank too hard).
Also get a piece of clear tubing and a yard stick.
Replace the damaged sections.
Remove a burner from the stove.
Use rubber bands to hold the clear tube on the yardstick as a long U.
Put about a foot of water in the tube.
Put the tube on the gas jet and turn the burner on.
Open the tank valve. Give it a five count and close it again.
Go look at the water levels in the tube. There should be 11 inches between them and it should stay that way all day.
If it does, you are done.
If it does not, then get out the soapy water and look for the leak. It may not be in any of the work you did.
Good Luck Guy
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
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GrumpyandGrandma
CIncinnati, OH
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TonyMin wrote:That happened to me before too. I had my plumber friend replace all lines with ridgid galvanized to keep it more safe. I didn't like the idea of having flex line that close to the wheels.
Hope you meant "black iron". Galvanized is a no no for natural or LP gas.
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Gmanrv
Pitt Meadows BC
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Thanks all for the tips and suggestions, I will give it a shot. I think everything is using compression fittings.
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hohenwald48
Hohenwald, TN
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When I jack up the MH I then block the axle and frame using 6x6 wood blocks.
Never use compression fittings on gas lines.
Galvanized iron will shed zinc particles that will eventually clog all your gas orfices.
If you use any black iron, use RectorSeal #5 on the threads.
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NewsW
US
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Joined: 02/06/2012
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If you are not dead broke, I'd get the work done by a licensed propane tech, or at least, inspected after it is done.
Propane leaks are no fun.
Nor are explosions.
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winnietrey
seattle
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Joined: 03/26/2005
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Just a thought, any concern the lines maybe damaged above and below the breaks?
From the pounding they took I would think that could be possible
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