TonyMin wrote: When talking delamination the only problem is the luan. It is not that the luan separated from the foam, or that the luan separated from the filon. It is that the luan separated from itself. I have a layer of luan still attached to the coach, and a layer of luan still attached to the filon. Neither can be removed. It is the center layer that has crumbled. The amount of moisture is astonishing. It is like a sponge. It has spread a huge distance from the original leak.
We wouldn't buy a boat made with cardboard, we shouldn't have to buy an rv made with luan either.
The lack of proper flashing is another story. Butt joining of trim pieces and depending on caulk for the seal is just asking for what happens. If I was going to design a system that fails quickly, this would be it.
They also seem to think putting a screw through putty tape under that moulding is going to keep water from getting in around the screw. Well it does . . . for about the first three years. As soon as the unit is out of warrantee, you need to pull the 600 to 900 screws out and put something like ProFlex RV in the screw holes.
Yes, most screws I pulled out are rusted. They also save a lot of money not using stainless screws.
Anyone, if you have an RV older than 3 years, pull out all the screws, check all the trim and or replace the putty with something better. Awnings are a big problem as they are often installed last. Check around your windows.
I took the right rear apart today. The wood is in decent shape and I think I can get away with regluing the filon without the extensive repairs I am doing to the left rear. If only I had opened it up a year or two sooner.
Those with the shiney outside, i.e., molded side panels with the delam problems has anyone suggested to replace the panels with 1/4" fiberglass panels? Before I retired I saw these being used on comercial applications, other than weight and possibly how to hang them this "might" be a solution.
N7SJN wrote: Those with the shiney outside, i.e., molded side panels with the delam problems has anyone suggested to replace the panels with 1/4" fiberglass panels? Before I retired I saw these being used on comercial applications, other than weight and possibly how to hang them this "might" be a solution.
Don't see why not, as long as the thickness is matching the existing luan/filon sheet. But FG are not all created equal. FG made with epoxy resin, is very durable, dry or wet. Lesser quality if made with vinylester resin, but still good. The worst FG is made with polyester resin, though even this one will outlast luan in wet conditions. What is the problem with hanging FG other than weight, I don't know. We're talking of mere 1/4" thickness (or 3/16 may be).
If your filon is in good shape there is no reason to not reglue it. Mine is in great shape. It's the luan that fails.
The real lesson is, keep the water out.
Filon, being (most likely) a low grade polyester resin fiberglass (with chopped glass strands, not a glass fabric), is still very resistant to water, like most reinforced plastics. Better than luan, anyway. They shouldn't use wood there, or it should be completely sealed on all seams with overlapping Eternabond tape and liquid rubber, and all screw should be stainless. But they will never do this. They won't even use stainless screws - Jeez, it would only cost $50-60 more to use all stainless screws and no extra labor costs.
As I can see it, the problem with re-gluing is that you have to make sure that you found and fixed all the damaged areas. Luan can't be in a great shape if it caused bubbles and/or delamination. This is fumes, by-products of rot process. So there are rotten areas there, and they should be replaced or completely sealed with epoxy (if they are small isolated areas). You can impregnate small isolated areas with epoxy (the one that you ordered or GitRot or whatever) instead of replacing the luan and re-gluing the filon, this should help, as long as you don't miss any.
"...So there are rotten areas there, and they should be replaced or completely sealed with epoxy (if they are small isolated areas). You can impregnate small isolated areas with epoxy..."
I totally agree with the above statement. Whatever you keep needs to be treated with flowable epoxy to seal and solidiy the luan, foam, filon, wood or metal framing.
This is exactly what the Composet SLV RV epoxy is for. I've used it and it works. Comes with special syringes so you can direct the flow and basically inject the the epoxy into the wall. It is quite runny compared to anything else I've used, and this is exactly what you want for solidifying the sections you are leaving in place.
You might want to call them. I think their number is on the website. www.delamrepair.com
bingford wrote: Whatever you keep needs to be treated with flowable epoxy to seal and solidiy the luan, foam, filon, wood or metal framing.
This is exactly what the Composet SLV RV epoxy is for. I've used it and it works. Comes with special syringes so you can direct the flow and basically inject the the epoxy into the wall.
Oh, there is more than one product of this kind. Basically, they all are epoxy with slow hardener, so it can penetrate deeper before it cures. GitRot and CPES are common names in boating. CPES sounds like more suitable for hardening large areas than GitRot. Can't say about Composet, just don't know it.
Re-gluing filon to undamaged but delaminated luan (don't know how this is possible - if delaminated then it's rotten) is a whole different story. You'll have to come up with a way to press filon sheet to luan, without screws through this area.
bingford wrote: Whatever you keep needs to be treated with flowable epoxy to seal and solidiy the luan, foam, filon, wood or metal framing.
This is exactly what the Composet SLV RV epoxy is for. I've used it and it works. Comes with special syringes so you can direct the flow and basically inject the the epoxy into the wall.
Oh, there is more than one product of this kind. Basically, they all are epoxy with slow hardener, so it can penetrate deeper before it cures. GitRot and CPES are common names in boating. CPES sounds like more suitable for hardening large areas than GitRot. Can't say about Composet, just don't know it.
Re-gluing filon to undamaged but delaminated luan (don't know how this is possible - if delaminated then it's rotten) is a whole different story. You'll have to come up with a way to press filon sheet to luan, without screws through this area.
You make a lot of good points.
Besides a slower hardener, the viscosity (measurement of how thin or thick a liquid is) can be important. The Composet product is less than 1000 Centipoise, which is about as runny as cooking oil.
And yes, clamoing is critical. Devisng the clamping process can be complicated. Removal of a window or door usually allows temporary installation of wood bracing on the inside and outside walls. Installing clamps at the top of the window, bottom of the window, and bottow of the wall can work.
bingford wrote: Whatever you keep needs to be treated with flowable epoxy to seal and solidiy the luan, foam, filon, wood or metal framing.
This is exactly what the Composet SLV RV epoxy is for. I've used it and it works. Comes with special syringes so you can direct the flow and basically inject the the epoxy into the wall.
Oh, there is more than one product of this kind. Basically, they all are epoxy with slow hardener, so it can penetrate deeper before it cures. GitRot and CPES are common names in boating. CPES sounds like more suitable for hardening large areas than GitRot. Can't say about Composet, just don't know it.
Re-gluing filon to undamaged but delaminated luan (don't know how this is possible - if delaminated then it's rotten) is a whole different story. You'll have to come up with a way to press filon sheet to luan, without screws through this area.
You make a lot of good points.
Besides a slower hardener, the viscosity (measurement of how thin or thick a liquid is) can be important. The Composet product is less than 1000 Centipoise, which is about as runny as cooking oil.
And yes, clamoing is critical. Devisng the clamping process can be complicated. Removal of a window or door usually allows temporary installation of wood bracing on the inside and outside walls. Installing clamps at the top of the window, bottom of the window, and bottow of the wall can work.
I tried to do some repairs on my fiver on the back corners with epoxy. It was a resounding failure. The problem was the clamping. I have heard of people having success by parking alongside a building (typically their garage) and wedging 2x4s between the building and the side of the trailer and having success.
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