Hi, I noticed while de-winterizing my trailer that the links on the Reese chains look like they are pulling apart. Pictures below (assuming I can make it work right), thoughts? Should I just replace the chains, or have them re-welded, or something else?
Mike & Melynda joined by rugrats Alexandra, Zoe, and Georgia
2010 Yukon XL 3/4 ton V8
2011 North Trail 32QBSS, Reese Dual Cam Our trailer and camping pics
Note that I don't think Reese makes chains and has purchased it from some supplier
Looks like electrical welded and that either the mating surfaces were not clean
enough, touching (flatness) enough and/or not enough amperes (and long enough)
Hope their supplier has their stock segregated by vendor and lot numbers
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
Wow...I'll be checking mine from time to time after seeing this...
Yes, contact Reese and PLEASE let us know what they have to say by adding to this thread...
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."
GMC Duramax LBZ
Komfort
Reese Dual Cam HP Our Rig Picture...CLICK HERE
Is that the link that is on the "hook"? If so from the picture, you have the remaining loose end link between the hook and the link that is hooked over the hook. By rights it should be dangling free below the hook. My guess is, that if that is the link that is separating, is that the link that is wedged in there is putting a lot of pressure on the side of the weld. With it dangling free, most of the load is straight in tension. It is probably a marginal weld and the link wedged there didn't help.
Hope that is clear. I don't have one of these hitches, but any time in industry we used chains we made sure the loose end was "free" and not bound at the top of the loaded link.
downtheroad wrote: Wow...I'll be checking mine from time to time after seeing this...
Yes, contact Reese and PLEASE let us know what they have to say by adding to this thread...
+1!!!!!! Holy cripe, good eyes!!!!
Are all the links that way, or just the 1?
Thank you for posting that as I wouldn't have thought to check the links.
Good luck when you talk to Reese, and please keep us posted!
Chris
Call Reese, they have a lifetime warranty on the hitch.
The loads of the WD hitch should not be any where near the strength of that chain. I do not see that as a sizing problem but a manufacturing defect. They will stand behind it.
And, good for you for inspecting and looking!! Any machine made needs inspection on some periodic basis.
Let us know how you make out
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
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