doughere
Mooresville NC
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That's one heck of a graph. Could someone explain it to me???
Reading their text, the best I can gather is that they think something is pretty good about their stuff for some reason, but darned if I can make out what and on what basis they are judging it.
Typical hot air.
Doug
ps. I don't own either battery.
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mena661
Southern California
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greenrvgreen wrote:The Lithium-wishers might want to bear in mind that Li batteries react very poorly to being overcharged. No wishing needed. If I had the money, these would already be in my RV. And they don't like to be underdischarged either (aka they're dead with one underdischarge). A Battery Management System (BMS) takes care of that. The DIY EV and marine folks are WAY ahead of us and already using these. RVers are JUST now getting into this and there is at least one forum member using these in his MH. The battery type used, Lithium Iron Phosphate, is MUCH less volatile than the kind used in commercial EV cars (Volt and Leaf), laptops, and cell phones (although all those use BMS's too).
2009 Newmar Canyon Star 3205, Ford F53 V10
Trojan L16 6V's 740 Amp-hours
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smkettner
Southern California
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I think that might be Telsa using the laptop lithium iron phosphate and requires an active cooling system.
Leaf chemistry:
Cell type Laminate type
Cathode material LiMn2O4 with LiNiO2
Anode material Graphite
Rated capacity (0.3C) 33.1 Ah
Average voltage 3.8 V
Length 11.417" (290 mm)
Width 8.504" (216 mm)
Thickness 0.2795" (7.1mm)
Weight 1.7624 lbs (799 g)
Leaf wiki
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675 watts solar
Send a PM if I missed something
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renoman69
Edmonton Alberta
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Joined: 02/09/2009
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BFL13 wrote:renoman69 wrote:smkettner wrote:Now all we need is Trojan's side of the story....
Well here is My side of the story......I had two Trojans that lasted 14 years. I then bought two US Battery 6vs that lasted a year and a half before I got fed up with them and went back to Trojans. I would NEVER go back and I think their claims are bogus.
Memory spotty, but ISTR last year you revived those US Batteries and got their SG back up. (there were photos of red top, white case?) If so, then perhaps it is not fair to blame those batteries for how they got that way. 
EDIT: here it is:
renoman69 wrote:Well it has been almost 1 month since I put my 2 US Battery 6 volt GC's on the Battery Minder. I took them off yesterday and let them sit idle for a day. Here is the SG reading now.
It seems that the Battery Minder has done what it claims, desulfate the batteries. The reading is almost 1.300 in all six cells. I will now draw them down and see if my 3 stage smart charger will bring them back up again.
Mena, I did get the SG back up but why the heck was it down and so difficult to get back up. Those two batteries sat on the Minder for 1 month and as you might recall I could not get them properly charged with a 3 stage smart charger. WAY to much of a PITA for me. I will stick with my Trojans which give ZERO grief.
2009 Jayco Eagle Superlite 25.5RKS
2008 Silverado 2500HD Z71 4x4 Duramax/Allison
Reese 15K slider
Honda EU2000I,
270 watts of Kyocera solar
Blue Sky 3024i MPPT controller
450 AHs of Trojan power
Iota DLS-75/IQ4 converter
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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My "learner" batteries were a pair of U-2200s that my charger could not get to full SG by the time the charger decided they were "full." It was very frustrating. Eventually (too late really , for that pair) I found that they needed higher voltage for the finishing charge to get their SG up like it says here in the Interstate FAQ
http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=1
Now with the newer charger I got, VEC1093DBD, which does an Equalize run to 15.7v temp compensated, I can get the GC2-XHDs (replaced the U-2200) 6v up to proper SG by doing that E after each recharge to so-called "Full", which is what Interstate says they need. No PITA, just push a button.
My Exide GC135s which are 226AH 6v also need this high voltage routine at the end to get them to "real full."
Crown 6v also want that it seems.
So is it different with T-105s? Does their SG come right up with an ordinary recharge to "full" with a converter or charger that has say 14.4v tops? That would be great if they did so you wouldn't need
a special charger that will get into the high 15s. (Converters won't of course)
2003 Chev 2500HD Gas, 2003 Komfort 26FS 5er
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renoman69
Edmonton Alberta
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BFL13 wrote:My "learner" batteries were a pair of U-2200s that my charger could not get to full SG by the time the charger decided they were "full." It was very frustrating. Eventually (too late really , for that pair) I found that they needed higher voltage for the finishing charge to get their SG up like it says here in the Interstate FAQ
http://www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php?questionid=1
Now with the newer charger I got, VEC1093DBD, which does an Equalize run to 15.7v temp compensated, I can get the GC2-XHDs (replaced the U-2200) 6v up to proper SG by doing that E after each recharge to so-called "Full", which is what Interstate says they need. No PITA, just push a button.
My Exide GC135s which are 226AH 6v also need this high voltage routine at the end to get them to "real full."
Crown 6v also want that it seems.
So is it different with T-105s? Does their SG come right up with an ordinary recharge to "full" with a converter or charger that has say 14.4v tops? That would be great if they did so you wouldn't need
a special charger that will get into the high 15s. (Converters won't of course)
BFL, I can't do a fair comparison because I now have a bank of 4 Trojans. I, unlike a lot of you guys don't have the time or interest for all the intricate numbers. I don't know if my converter ever got my US Batteries to full charge. All I know is that after a single night they would be dead. All summer long. I was constantly recharging them unlike the Trojans I had before them in the same unit. I have not given these new bank of 4 Trojans a real off grid test yet as I just added them late last year and they have been sitting on the Minder in the garage all winter. I will be putting them back in this weekend and plan to pull the plug on my converter and see how well they do. I am confidant that with my Iota 45 w/IQ4 and my 40 amp TC2 I can get them up to near 100% in a reasonable amount of time. Gonna see what % of charge I have to run the TC2 at before it stalls the Honda 2000. Of course the TC2 can be run to equalize once the batts are near 100%.
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mena661
Southern California
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That equipment will do the job just fine Reno.
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BFL13
Victoria, BC
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mena661 wrote:That equipment will do the job just fine Reno.
If used! Find the time. It is critical to take the SG after the initial "full" and see if it is "really full" (Allowing for a bit of "SG lag." ) If not, it is vital to disconnect batteries from rig (to protect the fridge etc) and do that Equalize to near 16v and get them up to their baseline SG (which you should already have--if not, write it down after the next Equalize when SG tops out at whatever)
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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Joined: 06/01/2007
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Wheeeeeeeeeeee! Eight Volt Battery.
Sorry but my B.S. Detector swung way over into the red on this one.
Wheeeeeeeeeeee!
Let's go stand on the loading dock and count the ratio of batteries rejected for OEM warranty failure.
Want to really ask what color underwear they have on? Ask OEM for a *percentage figure* for batteries returned by distributors under the OEM/Distributor warranty period.
Now THAT is a below the trunks foul!
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MEXICOWANDERER
las peñas, michoacan, mexico
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Where are my steenking manners?!
Thank you cruz-in for posting this link. No this isn't written in jest.
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