That is exactly the way the selector switch works. While on shore power, since your Brave is only 30 amp, the selector switch will select either the front or rear air, not both. When on generator one phase of the generator runs the house, and the other half only runs the rear air. The selector switch must be put to the front position for this to happen.
Here is a link to the manuals.
I have a 50 amp motor home... 5500 Watt Onan, Runs both A/C, the MIcrowave and the Water heater all at the same time. If I use electric oven or hot plate and make coffee with all that stuff on I may trip a breaker.
NOTE: On this generator, breakers like to shut off for no good reason. (Vibration does it I think, that and heat) .
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
In most cases, a 5500 watt Generator should be able to run two A/C's. But in the real world, it all depends on how the Manufactor set up your RV in the first place.
We have a Generac 55G Generator. Which by all means can and should be able to run boht of our A/C's with no problems. As our Front A/C is a 13,500 BTU A/C, and our Bedroon is an 11,000 BTU A/C.
But the way our Motorhome is wired, the Front 13,500 BTU A/C is on a 30 AMP Breaker. And the Bedrooms 11,000 BTU A/C is wired on a 20 AMP Breaker.
So "we can", and we "can not" run both A/C's at the very same time. Even though our 5.5G Generator has more than enought power to do so.
We have what is called a "Pulse-Air-System". On our Bedroom Wall, there is a Double Switch Marked: "Front", "Rear", for the A/C's. If we use that switch, then that is the only choice we have, one or the other, period.
On our "Main Power Control Panel", we have a "3 Position Switch" that says "Pluse-Air-Ststem" right on it. The Top Position, is for the Front A/C, the Bottom Position, is for the Bedroom A/C.
The Middle Position Switch is for the "Pulse-Air-System". For those of you that may not have heard of this before, it means we can run both A/C's, on the Generator Only. On Shore Power we can only run one A/C, Period. But the way it actually runs, is the Front A/C runs for approx 13 Minutes, then it shut off. And the Rear A/C stats up instantely, and it runs for approx 7 Minutes. And it just keeps repeating this over and over as long as you have it set for the "Pulse-Air System".
According to the Manufactor, this is the "Cheapest way" to be able to run both A/C's and save Money doing it. One would almost think that Starting and Stopping two A/C's this often, like this would be very hard on the A/C's themselfs.
But they are not. Each A/C starts up "Extreamly Easy", and with "No Strains" or any "Hesatations". And surprizingly, it works very well, and is very effective in cooling our Motorhome, even on the Hottest of Days.
Another plus to this, is we can also run the Microwave/Convection Oven at the same time, while the A/C's are running and Switching. It does not Over-Load the System.
Now I do have a back ground in "Electrail", "Electronics" and "Advanced Electronics". But do to the way our Rexhall Motorhome was built, I haven't been able to figure out how in the world to access all the nessary wires, to re-wrie it, so I can in fact run both A/C's at the same time. It would be a Nighmare to do.
I also have wanted to do a "Digital Thermostat" Upgrade Mod. But because the "Wall Thermostat" is not all that close to the "2 A/C Wall Switchs", then theres the "Pulse-Air-System" also.
So I basically wouldn't have any way to connect the Furance and the 2 A/C's together to a "New Digital Thermostat". It also complictes it, because of the wires on the "Main Power Control Panel", for the "Pulse-Air-System".
Also another issue, is that both of our A/C's are "Non-Ducted A/C Units" and they also have 3 Speed Fans on each A/C itself. ( Low-Med-High).
We do have to admitt, that these A/C's do actually do a very good job of Cooling our Motorhome. Much better than we though in the begining. Because they are "Non-Ducted" A/C Units, they have Luvered Slats on them to Direct the Air Flow. So if the Front A/C is running, I can shut off the Rear Luvered Slats, and have all the cold air directed to the cab area only. Great for those really hot days. Or I can close off the Front Luvered Slats, and direct all the cold air to the Living Area, Kitchen, Hall and the Bedroom. I can also do the very same thing with the Bedroom A/c, and direct all the cold air towards all the areas forward to the Front of the Motorhome.
Even on the Low Speed, you can easily feel the cold air from either A/C, at the differnt ends. This is the first RV we have owned in the past 45+ years as RV'ers, that has been a "Non-Ducted A/C Units.
So far, we are very impressed with how well they do cool our Motorhome on very hot days. If we would have had a choice of "Ducted" or "Non-Ducted" A/C Units, and seeing just how well they do perform, we would go with he "Non-Ducted A/C's.
As they have proven to be very effective in Cooling our Motorhome very well. The only thing that is "Ducted" in our Motorhome, is our Motorhomes Furance, and we never use that anyways. But that is another story.
This problem has been a real "Brain Stumper" for sure. I have done all of my own RV Repairs and Mods for the past 45+ years now.
The fact that it's a Brave makes me wonder if it is able to or not. I'm not sure how long the current Onan 5500 has been on the market. When in doubt call Winnebago Owner Relations, (800)-537-1885.
On our 5500 there are two breakers, some what hidden behind a bundle of wires on the upper left side. You might check to make sure both breakers are plugged in. We also have a switch located inside that we flip between Generator & Plug which I believe enables the additional leg of power off the generator.
I say probably. Do you have a 120v plugin voltmeter? Even though they might run, you could have issues. All 120v appliances, unless listed differently, run on 120v =/- 10%. That means your power must stay above 108v. If your power gets below 108, you might not notice anything immediate but it will increase the heat in the line. This starts accumulating heat damage.
There are a few variables. What are the sizes of your ACs? Are there any other draws on the lines?
Ours 2 work and stays above 110v unless we add load.
May God bless your travels
Me, The Wonderful Wife
and two Spastic Border Collies U.S. Army Retired 2004 Coachmen Aurora, 3480DS 2007 Saturn Outlook, FROG
My Onan 5500 runs my Winnie Basement air (24,000 btu) AND the additional installed roof air (13,500 btu) at the same time. That's comparable to 3 roof airs.
Do you have a "front/both/rear" switch hiding in a closet somewhere? That would let you run the AC of choice on land line. To run both off the gen. you would select "both" or "front".
The ones I've messed with (older, no management systems) that didn't have that switch would run the front air on the land line and the front and rear on generator. 5500's are wired the same as the larger ones to my knowledge - with 2 legs? Rear AC wired to second leg.
craigspeer2001 wrote: I have a 33 ft winebago brave I am curiuous to why both acs will run off generator is this ok or do I have something wrong with my selector switch.
5500watts should be more than adequate for two 1500watt (approx.) A/C's with plenty to spare. That's about 45amps worth and 15amps more than 30amp shore power.
"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350 on a 1997 Chevy P32
Chassis_7.4 Vortec Engine_4L80E Tranny_slide_tag axle.
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