"Leveling is one of the requirements for proper operation with
absorption refrigerators. To ensure proper leveling, the vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls))." (Emphasis added)
Does not need to be dead level, most folks cannot detect an inch or two in any direction. If it is comfortable to live in, according to Dometic that is level enough, no need for a lot of angst about "I am I level enough..." An inch or two, given the lengths involved in a trailer's dimensions is well within the operating perameters that the manufacturer's build into these units.
My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...
Don
Bronwyn
3 Cats - Coco, J-Lo and Ragamuffin
2011 Keystone Cougar 318SAB
2011 Ram 2500 Longhorn CTD HO
Built in brake controller and exhaust brake
Tri Glide TrailAir Pinbox with a B&W Companion Hitch
webslave wrote: Per the Dometic Operator's Manual:
"Leveling is one of the requirements for proper operation with
absorption refrigerators. To ensure proper leveling, the vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls))." (Emphasis added)
Does not need to be dead level, most folks cannot detect an inch or two in any direction. If it is comfortable to live in, according to Dometic that is level enough, no need for a lot of angst about "I am I level enough..." An inch or two, given the lengths involved in a trailer's dimensions is well within the operating perameters that the manufacturer's build into these units.
Yep, I have read the manuals many times… These are the same mfg that have had to recall up to 3 million units and counting for overeating issues…
overheating is also a problem that has magnified since the redesign of the cooling units to made them supposabily more tolerant to things like out of level…
Overheating they haven’t been able to find a cure for other than locking the unit out…
And still I have yet to find a aftermarket cooling unit mfg or a company specializing in RV fridge repair that recommends anything but level when stationary…
Snip
Leveling the Refrigerator
All ammonia absorption refrigerators (RV refrigerators) have to be level, when stationary and turned on to any heat source, period. Not doing so will permanently damage the cooling unit. If stationary, on, and out of level, liquids in the cooling unit pool in places they shouldn't and cause the boiler to overheat and plug or crack.
snip
Operating at or near the operating parameters established by Dometic or Norcold of 6* front to rear and 3* side to side ( facing the door) is a sure fired way to ruin the cooling over a relatively short time…
And even if they will operate at that degree out of level it will damage the fluid, the efficiency, and dramatically shorten the life of the cooling unit…
The OP at one inch side to side is about 1* out of level front to rear of the fridge (mounted in the side wall)… while that wouldn’t spell instant death to the fridge by any means with extended use it can begin to solidify the Sodium chromate rust inhibitors that can slow the circulation of the fluid down, and in time begin to render the rust inhibitor itself ineffective…
Leveling is a pretty easy thing to do when considering the risk of not doing it…. Dometic and Norcold’s main concern is that it last and is realizable through the warranty period…
IMHO, I am not saying you can’t do it or that it won’t work, but I believe when you do you are doing yourself a disservice… and that is where I will leave it…
Love my mass produced, entry level, built by Lazy American Workers, Hornet
Jayco25E wrote: I hate when I eggs run to one side of the pan.
That's my main concern when leveling. If the stove top is level, we're level. I used a carpenter's level on the stove top when originally installing the levels on the exterior, so that's what I always go by.
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