Disconnect the converter or turn off the breaker in the coach feeding the converter before you test on the generator. Always check your voltages ,hot ,neutral and ground before plugging in even at RV parks, you would be amazed at the number of people that repair stuff that have no knowledge of AC power.
You can bypass the converter, just flip off the breaker in the MoHo for the converter. Plugging in to shore power will still power all 120v items and receptacles.
Yes, one 30A single pole breaker. The cable must also be at least 10AWG with a hot, neutral, and ground. If he ran 12AWG then the biggest breaker you can use is 20A.
2007 Expedition EL 4x4 Tow pkg
1981 Palomino Pony, the PopUp (Sold)
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PUCampin wrote: You can bypass the converter, just flip off the breaker in the MoHo for the converter. Plugging in to shore power will still power all 120v items and receptacles.
How do you bypass the converter? When I hook up shore power the converter continues to smoke.
With no ac power connected or generator running remove the breaker cover plate, look for the wire coming from your inverter connected to one of your breakers. Loosen the terminal screw and disconnect the wire and tape it out of the way for testing, or until you replace your converter. Re-secure any other wire that shared the same terminal.
I wasn't through the first sentence when I knew what happened. Many members in this Club. Skills range from Clueless to Licensed Professional. They just look at that massive plug, the heavy shore tie cable, and think it's 240.
Lord Willing, the Converter's the only casualty and the breakers protected the rest.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
When folks know nothing about RVs they often will install a 240 volt dryer plug (which looks a little bit like a 30 amp RV plug and the result will ALWAYS be smoke. You probably fried anything in your converter and power distribution box that did not have over voltage protection.
Friends are the WORST people to install those plugs because they are trying to help and THINK they know what they're doing but don't.
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US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
j-d wrote: I wasn't through the first sentence when I knew what happened. Many members in this Club. Skills range from Clueless to Licensed Professional. They just look at that massive plug, the heavy shore tie cable, and think it's 240.
Lord Willing, the Converter's the only casualty and the breakers protected the rest.
On this site (not necessarily this sub-forum), I had to fight pitch battles to get people to to use licensed propane techs, electricians, plumbers, RV techs (low voltage), etc. to do what I know to be safety critical repairs.
In another sub-forum, posters felt it OK to hurl insults because I made it clear that lead acid flooded cell batteries must be ventilated in accordance with industry standard rules to prevent the risk of hydrogen explosions and acid spills!!!! The fella was going to put the lead acid batteries in an enclosed compartment!!!
Having watched fires (in real time) in RVs, cars and trucks, and how fast an RV can be engulfed in flames and trapping those inside, and knowing what I know about what vibration and corrosion can do to an RV's electrical, plumbing and propane / fuel systems, I prefer to never mess around.
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Now for this case....
IMHO, the entire electrical system has to be inspected and re-certified to make sure there is no hidden damage.
Because of hidden wiring, such an inspection cannot be perfect but can still lead to hidden flaws being missed unless the entire system is rewired from scratch.
There is no factual basis to believe damage is limited to the converter and specifically to the capacitors.
Circuit board, etc. where you cannot see --- all are likely toast.
In any case, after an incident, the entire device have to be replaced as it is not "field repairable" unless you are a certified electronics tech and know what to watch / look for ---- far cheaper to buy a new converter.
Without knowing how the power went into the circuit, and whether there are things like hidden cabling that is melted, arced, etc. etc.
Every appliance need to be disconnected from the mains, and re-certified.
Licensed electrician is the way to go.
Licensed RV electrician is a specialty is the real good way to go.
I would not turn on any power, 12V DC or 120/240!!! AC until every last circuit and appliance and switch and plug is inspected.
* This post was
edited 05/05/12 07:29am by NewsW *
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and the 3 in 3 
2007, DD 
2008
