I decided to put all of this in one post so as not to clutter up the board too much with them individually. My 1992 Roadtrek works well but there are a few things I need some advice on.
First, the converter. It's a Magnetek 6332
It mounts under the rear bench
I want to replace with the Progressive Dynamics PD9245. But what about the fuse box? Does the PD9245 have one like this or what? Also,
I guess I'll have to keep the old Magnetek grill on the woodwork so as not to have a huge hole? Also will this PD9245 fit in this area?
Next, the generator sits in a side box access, not under the van.
The housing has a removable sheet metal for the inside that has foam insulation tape to seal it when screwed down. Under the sheet metal is all this insulation, the Onan 2.8 generator is under the insulation and vent to the outside with a grill door. Of course their is a generator muffler pipe under the van too. Is this insulation necessary, recommende, or required?
Finally, this is the refer. It's a Norcold N300. Its seem to be only 110v and propane. The dial selector only show a propane flame symbol and an electrical plug no battery symbol. The issue is that it gets cold, take a couple of hours at least, but I have to turn the thermostat dial all the way to 5 (the coldest setting) and leave it there. If I run it less that 4 or 5 the lower refrigerator parts gets over 40 degrees. The freezer however, seems to work strong and cold at other settings. Is this a thermostat problem or the refrigerant gas separation or what?
I'm probably going to have an rv mechanic put the converter in (I'll order it maybe and take it to him) and also fix the refer hopefully. But, I'd like to be educated on this stuff and offer the mech some of my thoughts before I go in and be at there mercy. Thanks for the help.
Have heard mucho good reports about the Progressive PD4645 from all our Winnebago class c groupies.
At least all that have replaced theirs with the PD model are very satisfied. Alot of the reason being that the PD won't fry your coach battery(s) like the factory converters usually do.
It's on my list as the next improvement
Bob & Sharon
2013 Winnebago ERA 70A
Sprinter Class B Van
Our Second Sprinter
The insulation was likely added by a PO for sound deadening. I doubt RT used loose batt insulation. If it's where the loose stuff could in any way conceivably block the opening in the door or air intake slots in the green box, I's replace it.
A reasonably cheap alternative is foil-faced rigid insulation from a furnace supply place. You can make it pretty weatherproof by smearing all surfaces with silicone sealant (messy but effective). There are more effective alternates, but they tend to be pricy. Under NO circumstances block cooling airflow either entering or exiting.
Jim, "Mo' coffee!"
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com