d3500ram
colorado
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Joined: 07/31/2006
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...instead of laying it in the camper bed every time. Anyone do this?
2005 Dodge 3500 SRW, Qcab long bed, NV-6500, diesel, 4WD, Helwig, 9000XL,
Nitto 285/70/17 Terra Grapplers, Honda eu3000Is, custom overload spring perch spacers.
2008 NorthStar Arrow short bed.
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cm
Dillon, CO USA
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Joined: 08/01/2002
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But would the rubber mat trap water between it and the bottom of the camper?
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d3500ram
colorado
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Joined: 07/31/2006
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That would be on of my concerns. Another would be how to attach it. I added 3/4" plywood and water proofed it (i.e. no open frame exposed) so there is a good substrate for which to fasten it to.
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sirdrakejr
Las Vegas, Nevada
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Joined: 11/18/2001
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If you have a spray in bed liner, you may not need a rubber mat in the truck bed. If you don't have a spray in liner, I would suggest looking into getting it. I have had them in all my trucks and believe they are worth the time and money.
Frank
2011 Palomino Maverick 1000SLLB on a 2004 Dodge Quadcab CTD Ram3500 SRW long bed equipped with Timbren springs, Stable Load bump stops, Rickson 19.5" wheels/"G" range tires and a Helwig "Big Wig" rear anti sway bar.
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d3500ram
colorado
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Joined: 07/31/2006
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I have the HercuLiner DIY bedliner... it is perfect for the added friction of the bedliner... It is not necessarily for heavy duty contractor hauling, but I do not do that type of work. A professional installed bedliner is overkill for my requirements.
...the 3/8" rubber mat along with the permanently attached 3/4 ply provides me with the perfect height spacing for my needs. I am just tired of the always rolling out and trowing the mat in every time I need it. By attaching the rubber to the TC will save me one step when mounting the camper.
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kcabpilot
CA
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Joined: 04/07/2008
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Or just leave the mat in the bed, it keeps all cargo from sliding around. The only time I remove mine is if I need to haul a load of dirt or rocks that will be shoveled out.
1994 Lance 990 on 1997 F350 PSD Dually "Rhino Haunches"
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d3500ram
colorado
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Joined: 07/31/2006
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I could leave it in the bed, but the "growing- up- in New Jersey" experience makes me realize that at times that nothing bolted down may "tend to walk."
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narcodog
Georgia
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Joined: 04/02/2006
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I think your looking at a problem you don't need to.
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d3500ram
colorado
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narcodog wrote:I think your looking at a problem you don't need to. Yea... I am starting to think that way too. Sure it would be one less hassle with which to deal, but overall it might be better to toss it in each time.
I guess I was more curious if fellow TC'ers have done this and how well it has worked out.
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Dan L
MPLS, MN US
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Joined: 11/06/2003
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I haven't done it yet, but I plan to do something close.
I'm going to add additional 2x's to the bottom of the camper, as in their current locations, they align very nicely with the grooves in the bed, making for a very tippy camper.
On the bottom of the 2x's I'm going to add 3/4 plywood and let it extend out the sides to guide the camper into the bed. (There will be a guide in/at the front also), and on the bottom of the plywood I'll either bond a rubber sheet or "paint" with something sticky, I'm thinking that latex primer used under tile bedding.
I want the camper to be "self-contained" when being put into the bed and I want it to be "constrained" in the bed, so that the tie-downs don't do all the "work".
Dan
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