schwartzworld
Lake County, Ohio
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First trip of the season and the breakaway cable broke at the truck end. We dragged the cable for many miles. Replacement cable with pin are hard to find. All I was finding was the complete switch with the cable. I decided to replace the cable. The existing cable was very light weight, don't know the reason for that considering the job it has to do. I used a larger diameter cable and then I hit a snag. The larger cable doesn't fit the pin too easily. I saw one replacement switch that used a split ring (think about a key ring) to attach the cable. That's how I attached my new cable. Picture isn't the best but hopefully it will give an idea of our fix.
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sgip2000
Oregon
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I use this: Breakaway Cable
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schwartzworld
Lake County, Ohio
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I don't like the coiled cables. Too much give. I think the straight cable will pull the pin faster if there's a disconnect.
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rgolding
Southern Illinois
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Looks to me like sgip2000 has the answer to your concerns.
or
The removable foot on our power trailer tongue jack is held in place with a "Safety/Keeper pin". I remove the foot and use the "Safety/Keeper pin" to go through the lock hole of our trailer hitch. Before securing the "Safety/Keeper Pin", I run the trailer power cable and the "breakaway cable" through the loop of the "Safety/Keeper Pin". I follow this procedure at every hook up. It may not work for everybody, but it works for this old military mind. I follow the procedure and that insures my breakaway cable is not dragging, my trailer power cable is not dragging and my hitch lock is secured. I do it the same way everytime and it gives me the peace of mind that I did all I was suppose to do.
Doesn't mean it's right, its just the way I do it.
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SolidAxleDurango
OK, USA
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Joined: 01/02/2003
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I don't use a cable at all.
TV = 07 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually 6.7 / QC-LB / CTD / G56 / 3.73 / 4wd / EBrake
5er = 12 Keystone Avalanche 330RE
Toys = 08 Kawasaki Brutie Force 650i 4x4 ( x2  )
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sgip2000
Oregon
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schwartzworld wrote:
I don't like the coiled cables. Too much give. I think the straight cable will pull the pin faster if there's a disconnect.
Slack is slack whether it's coiled or just hanging down.
If you choose a cable of the proper length, you won't have any issues.
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Gdetrailer
PA
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Joined: 01/05/2007
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SolidAxleDurango writes "I don't use a cable at all."
Hmm... stirring the pot are we?
In many states it is the law to have a properly working emergency breakaway system on ANY trailer which has a GVW of 3,000 lbs, period. 3,000 lbs GVW is also the Federal law to boot but some states are more stringent and may require it on 2,000 lbs GVW.
That cable IS part of the breakaway and must be secured to the TV any place other than the hitch. It is not a joke and should not be joked about.
So the ONLY way you can get away from using that cable is if you have a trailer UNDER 3,000 lbs GVW or you are using a TC (Truck Camper).
Your breakaway system MUST also have a battery on board of the trailer and it must be capable of not only stopping the trailer but holding it for at least 10 minutes.
As far as buying replacement cables, they are out there but it is easier to buy a new switch which will have a new cable. Keep the switch as a spare, they DO go bad and you need to check the function of the switch and your brakes every time you start a trip.
Doing so may prevent deaths of other motorist.
Solidaxle, as a side note, PA takes a very strict view of towing safety. A few years back an entire FAMILY including kids was killed near Pittsburgh by a 2,000 lb chipper which was improperly secured to the truck (safety chains were not attached and the hitch was not LOCKED via a pin). In PA, they CAN pull you over and not only issue you citations for any safety violations but they can impound your entire rig.
You have safety items on most RVs, use them properly and check them often for correct operation.
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RoyB
King George, VA
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Joined: 04/13/2008
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I am assuming the PIN did "NOT" get pulled out of the electric brake switch assy when you drug it for many miles. If this did happen I am surprised you would have been able to pull your trailer with the electric brakes engaged. My electric brakes will definately lock up and slide some tires when hit with full 12VDC. My brake controller is set to send around 6VDC to the electric brakes when pushing down on the truck brake pedal.
If you did pull the whole pin out of the disconnect switch and your trailer brakes did not engage like they should have, then you may have some additional electric brake problems you was aware of.
When the disconnect switch is engaged by pulling the brake cable then the on-board trailer battery is suppose to apply a full 12VDC voltage to all of your wheel mounted electric brakes to stop the trailer.
It is also not a good idea to pull the electric brake cable plunger to use as a holding brake for the trailer when parked at a camp site. If you leave 12VDC on the electric brake magnets too long it may burn them up and you wont have electric brakes when you need to have them...
Hope all is still ok with your electric brakes on the trailer.
It is also a DOT requirement that if your trailer has electric brakes installed then a trailer mounted battery must also be operational. This is usually your RV 12VDC Trailer battery but could also be a small out of the way trailer brake battery.
It has never happened to me but I have read a post on here a way back that a RV guy was stopped by DOT and asked to pull his electric brake cord and pull forward to see if his trailer brakes was engaged. I guess DOT could fine you if the trailer brakes didnt work???
I guess you looked at etrailer.com for your part. They sure have alot of items like this for sale on that site...
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
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Mikesr
Lebanon Pa
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Joined: 10/31/2003
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GREAT POST !!!
Gdetrailer wrote:SolidAxleDurango writes "I don't use a cable at all."
Hmm... stirring the pot are we?
In many states it is the law to have a properly working emergency breakaway system on ANY trailer which has a GVW of 3,000 lbs, period. 3,000 lbs GVW is also the Federal law to boot but some states are more stringent and may require it on 2,000 lbs GVW.
That cable IS part of the breakaway and must be secured to the TV any place other than the hitch. It is not a joke and should not be joked about.
So the ONLY way you can get away from using that cable is if you have a trailer UNDER 3,000 lbs GVW or you are using a TC (Truck Camper).
Your breakaway system MUST also have a battery on board of the trailer and it must be capable of not only stopping the trailer but holding it for at least 10 minutes.
As far as buying replacement cables, they are out there but it is easier to buy a new switch which will have a new cable. Keep the switch as a spare, they DO go bad and you need to check the function of the switch and your brakes every time you start a trip.
Doing so may prevent deaths of other motorist.
Solidaxle, as a side note, PA takes a very strict view of towing safety. A few years back an entire FAMILY including kids was killed near Pittsburgh by a 2,000 lb chipper which was improperly secured to the truck (safety chains were not attached and the hitch was not LOCKED via a pin). In PA, they CAN pull you over and not only issue you citations for any safety violations but they can impound your entire rig.
You have safety items on most RVs, use them properly and check them often for correct operation.
Mike and Donna
2005 Chevy 2500HD
2009 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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Only takes about 20 lb. of force to pull the pin on most breakaway systems.
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
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