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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers

 > breakaway cable mount conflict?

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SilnJohn

Denver

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Posted: 05/07/12 06:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So this might be a stupid question but I'll ask anyway because I can't settle the argument in my head.

I setup my round bar WDH on the new truck last weekend and did a test pull. The tundra was awesome, but the chains for the wt bars are interferring with the breakaway cable mount. I am not sure exaclty why it wasn't a problem with the old setup but it is. The breakaway cable is mounted directly under the WDH chain mount location. So on sharp turns the chain cathes it and bend the breakaway mount inward.

So my quesion, is there any science to beakaway mount location. I get that is has to have adaquate ply to navigate turns but other than that can I mount it anywhere on the unside of the frame that has free room to "pull out"?


2012 Toyota Tundra Crew max 5.7 Limited
2005 F150 Lariat 4x 5.4L, 3.73 (80K mi 4sale cheap needs.......work)
2003 Nissan Pathfinder

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WI Bowhunter

Shiocton, WI

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Posted: 05/07/12 06:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Simple answer..YES, anywhere on the tongue. Side , top, bottom as lonf as you find a spot with no interference.


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Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)

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Posted: 05/08/12 12:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had that problem and the dealer mounted it on the under side of the propane tray.

DE88ROX

West Michigan. The other West Coast

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Posted: 05/08/12 06:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After you remount your switch, get yourself one of these
You wont have to worry about looping the cable so it wont drag on the ground. Plus its nice not getting it all tangled up while hooking and un-hooking.

Just put one on myself and I love it!!


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SilnJohn

Denver

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Posted: 05/08/12 06:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DE88ROX wrote:

After you remount your switch, get yourself one of these
You wont have to worry about looping the cable so it wont drag on the ground. Plus its nice not getting it all tangled up while hooking and un-hooking.

Just put one on myself and I love it!!


I like it, my cable is frayed right now anyway thats a quick and easy fix. Thanks,

* This post was edited 05/08/12 07:43am by SilnJohn *

WI Bowhunter

Shiocton, WI

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Posted: 05/08/12 07:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DE88ROX wrote:

After you remount your switch, get yourself one of these
You wont have to worry about looping the cable so it wont drag on the ground. Plus its nice not getting it all tangled up while hooking and un-hooking.

Just put one on myself and I love it!!


I like X2!

Chad/Jen

USA

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Posted: 05/08/12 07:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I assume that the coiled one in the picture is used instead of the non-coiled? (Sorry for the stupid question.)

DE88ROX

West Michigan. The other West Coast

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Posted: 05/08/12 02:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SilnJohn wrote:

DE88ROX wrote:

After you remount your switch, get yourself one of these
You wont have to worry about looping the cable so it wont drag on the ground. Plus its nice not getting it all tangled up while hooking and un-hooking.

Just put one on myself and I love it!!


I like it, my cable is frayed right now anyway thats a quick and easy fix. Thanks,


Camping world sells them.

DE88ROX

West Michigan. The other West Coast

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Posted: 05/08/12 02:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chad/Jen wrote:

I assume that the coiled one in the picture is used instead of the non-coiled? (Sorry for the stupid question.)


No such thing as a stupid question.

Yes, You just cut the old one off where it attaches to the pin. Comes with a loop like you have on a keychain and just attach that to your pin if all your replacing is your cable.

They also come in packs where the pin is included as well as the whole assembly, Coil cable, pin and switch.

Chad/Jen

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Posted: 05/09/12 04:38am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks De88Rox. Is there any way I can tell which one I need (4' or 6'), since i assume longer isn't necessarily better in this case?

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