Get a $2 outlet tester and use it
Otherwise pull the outlet off the wall. Black wire to the brass screw on the small slot side and white neutral to the silver side with the larger slot. I think you will be reversing those wires. Outlet tester will verify ground. Disconnect power first BTW.
This is another reason to have a multifunction surge/voltage protector. You will not have to be shocked to know something is wrong.
HouseApe wrote: I had that once on my old stick and tin TT. Only happened when I stoped under some power lines. I could not open the door felt like someing bit me...so moved it down the road real quick once I fugured it out.
X2 - the same thing happened to me at a CG, when when parked about 500' from overhead high voltage power lines. I think was getting about 8 volts AC on my meter when using the ground as a ground. Problem solved and voltage gone when I got home.
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5'er
2012 Silverado 3500HD, SRW,LTZ,4x4, Z71, Crew, 6.0 Gasser, 4:10 Gears, Standard bed
"These days, I have problems in areas that I used to not have areas", so life is good.
Long extension cords and poor connections can cause the skin to be hot.
Think of a water hose filling a tub of water. You have to use the same size hose to drain it or it will over flow or if enclosed pressure (voltage) would build up. Your inlet hose is working fine but the water has to drain off. With a poor outlet hose (return line) the pressure build up wants to go to ground any way it can. If you use a voltmeter in the AC volt mode you should be able to measure the voltage on the skin with one probe and the other end in the ground. If the ground damp it will show even better.
This can be a dangerous situation and that is why power tools are often "double insulated". Also modern housing require ground fault outlets when used outdoors. I believe there were probably some deaths from folks mowing their lawns with old electric mowers. If the return line opens up the tool can become electrically hot so the gfci trips to protect you.
This is why I ALWAYS make sure that my jacks make good contact with the ground. I do not put plastic or wood under the jacks.
Please give me enough troubles, uncertainty, problems, obstacles and STRESS so that I do not become arrogant, proud, and smug in my own abilities, and enough blessings and good times that I realize that someone else is in charge of my life.
TenOC wrote: This is why I ALWAYS make sure that my jacks make good contact with the ground. I do not put plastic or wood under the jacks.
Hmmmmm "ALWAYS" = *STILL* incorrect!
"TenOC" -
You made this same statement back on 7-25-11, on page 2 - in the thread "Electric Shock" - which was de-bunked by Mike Sokol and others in following posts.
For those that wish to find out why it's incorrect - Click here
Follow along for details & links to the excellent video for testing for "hot skin" by Sokol.
~
Also, you will find that wood under stabilizer jacks *IS* the "way to go" for lightning prone areas in this thread - Click here- see the links provided.
"Do it your way" is your choice - - but you should present facts to back *your* opinions..
~
* This post was
edited 05/09/12 11:01pm by ol Bombero-JC *
Thanks all and some great info, and links. I still need to reread all the previous threads, I just skimmed over them.
So, does anybody run a direct ground from thier trailer?
My stabilizers have wood attached, I use wood for a larger foot area under the landing gear, so trailer is insulated to a large degree.
I assume, like a lot, that the shore power is grounded, but what if it isn't?
Is there any harm in providing a direct ground? A metal rod in the ground with a piece of large copper wire attached to the frame?
For mine right now, I changed the location where I plugged in, doesn't seem to have issues right now. I am going over later and will play with readings with my dvm, see if they change with plug in location.
So, does anybody run a direct ground from thier trailer?
You CAN run an earth ground from the ground bus of a satellite panel like in your trailer, but you must make sure that the neutral power return does NOT connect to that ground bus, and only connects back to the central power source neutral. (which will be connected to the main ground there)
As for does anybody do it? Never heard of carrying and driving in a ground bar for the trailer itself. If I was concerned about resistance causing voltage rise between the outdoor socket and the main, I'd put a subpanel next to the outlet I plug into, and run the ground to earth from there. That way, the only voltage rise I can get is that through the big thick wires and single connector between the RV and the socket.
The idea of sinking my own ground rod for the trailer itself seems rather inconvenient. Particularly when the only problem you're having is that it seems that somewhere, your chassis ground and neutral return are shorted.
wolfwatcher wrote: For mine right now, I changed the location where I plugged in, doesn't seem to have issues right now. I am going over later and will play with readings with my dvm, see if they change with plug in location.
All this problem sounds like the Hot and Neutral were incorrectly connected at the receptacle that you originally plugged into. Since the problem is not there now that you moved to another receptacle. Go back the first receptacle and remove it, and check to see if the black wire is connected to brass screw (short slot on the receptacle front) and the white wire is connected to the silver screw (long slot on the receptacle front). If they are not, isolate the receptacle and correct the wiring on the receptacle.
If you ever find that you are getting a slight shock from your exposed metal on the trailer, always look to your power source for correct polarity. You likely got the slight shock because of AC polarity reversal, which energized your trailer frame. As previously mentioned, buy a AC polarity checker and plug it into your shore power source to ensure that this doesn't happen again.
Cheers
Helen & George VE3INB and Max (Bichon Frise) 2006 Silverado 2500HD D/A, Isspro Gauges, Linex, Westin Nerf Bars, Fold-A-Cover 2006 Cruiser CF30SK.
Reese 16K Slider, Bedsaver, Prodigy Controller, Rearview Camera, JT StrongArms
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