wolfwatcher wrote: Thanks all and some great info, and links. I still need to reread all the previous threads, I just skimmed over them.
So, does anybody run a direct ground from thier trailer?
Driving a ground rod to ground the trailer should NOT be done. This is especially important when you are connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, your trailer is grounded back at the supply panel for the shore power. If you have two ground points, one at the supply panel and one at the trailer, ground currents can start to flow, which is something that you definitely don't want. Also you don't want your neutral connected to ground in your trailer panel for basically the same reasons. The neutral is always connected to ground at the power source (ie Pole or ground mount transformer) and no where else. Even though the trailer has breaker panel with breakers etc, the trailer is basically a big appliance that is plugged into the power source and must wired accordingly, just like any other appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle.
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HouseApe wrote: I had that once on my old stick and tin TT. Only happened when I stoped under some power lines. I could not open the door felt like someing bit me...so moved it down the road real quick once I fugured it out.
There was a post here sometime within the last year where someone had problems getting shocked at their storage facility. The thing wasn't plugged in and there wasn't even a battery in the thing. There were high voltage power lines close overhead.
wolfwatcher wrote: Thanks all and some great info, and links. I still need to reread all the previous threads, I just skimmed over them.
So, does anybody run a direct ground from thier trailer?
Driving a ground rod to ground the trailer should NOT be done. This is especially important when you are connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, your trailer is grounded back at the supply panel for the shore power. If you have two ground points, one at the supply panel and one at the trailer, ground currents can start to flow, which is something that you definitely don't want. Also you don't want your neutral connected to ground in your trailer panel for basically the same reasons. The neutral is always connected to ground at the power source (ie Pole or ground mount transformer) and no where else. Even though the trailer has breaker panel with breakers etc, the trailer is basically a big appliance that is plugged into the power source and must wired accordingly, just like any other appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle.
I view the panel in the trailer as a subpanel off of whatever I am plugged into.
wolfwatcher wrote: For mine right now, I changed the location where I plugged in, doesn't seem to have issues right now. I am going over later and will play with readings with my dvm, see if they change with plug in location.
All this problem sounds like the Hot and Neutral were incorrectly connected at the receptacle that you originally plugged into. Since the problem is not there now that you moved to another receptacle. Go back the first receptacle and remove it, and check to see if the black wire is connected to brass screw (short slot on the receptacle front) and the white wire is connected to the silver screw (long slot on the receptacle front). If they are not, isolate the receptacle and correct the wiring on the receptacle.
If you ever find that you are getting a slight shock from your exposed metal on the trailer, always look to your power source for correct polarity. You likely got the slight shock because of AC polarity reversal, which energized your trailer frame. As previously mentioned, buy a AC polarity checker and plug it into your shore power source to ensure that this doesn't happen again.
This is the device he is refering to that you (and every RVer) should get:
Driving a ground rod to ground the trailer should NOT be done. This is especially important when you are connected to shore power. When connected to shore power, your trailer is grounded back at the supply panel for the shore power. If you have two ground points, one at the supply panel and one at the trailer, ground currents can start to flow, which is something that you definitely don't want. Also you don't want your neutral connected to ground in your trailer panel for basically the same reasons. The neutral is always connected to ground at the power source (ie Pole or ground mount transformer) and no where else. Even though the trailer has breaker panel with breakers etc, the trailer is basically a big appliance that is plugged into the power source and must wired accordingly, just like any other appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle.
I view the panel in the trailer as a subpanel off of whatever I am plugged into.
Yes, there's nothing wrong with viewing the power panel in the trailer as AC subpanel, but even with a subpanel, the power connection rules must be followed, which means that the ground and neutral are not connected in it. I used the words, "big appliance" for the trailer because electrically, it's no different from an appliance that you'd plug into a receptacle in the kitchen.
HouseApe wrote: I had that once on my old stick and tin TT. Only happened when I stoped under some power lines. I could not open the door felt like someing bit me...so moved it down the road real quick once I fugured it out.
There was a post here sometime within the last year where someone had problems getting shocked at their storage facility. The thing wasn't plugged in and there wasn't even a battery in the thing. There were high voltage power lines close overhead.
This is called an induced charge or induced voltage potential and can be quite dangerous if large enough.
I used to work in the radio broadcast industry maintaining RF transmitters and while RF transmissions are at different frequencies than induced high voltage AC line voltages the results and affects can be bizarre and dangerous.
Quite disconcerting to walk into a RF transmission room holding a 48 inch fluorescent tube in your hand and have it bust to life and glow brightly simply from the RF in the air.
I have heard music and sound project or emanate out of the end of a 1/2 steel rod driven into the ground if you were lined up with the end. Move 6 inches one way of the other and the sound could not be heard.
Or....picking up RF transmissions thru your silver dental fillings...*s
Mike
2010 Cedar Creek 34SATS (The Beast) & 20k Curt Q20 roller slider hitch
2006 Ford F350 SRW,SC Powerstroke diesel Lariat 2003 Harley Heritage Softail (Hogzilla) and a wifey with tons of patience....
One other thing to check, if your Fox is like mine. The slides use coiled power cords around a metal guide. It is possible the cord is starting to wear. Don't know, but it is something simple to check.
dieseltruckdriver wrote: One other thing to check, if your Fox is like mine. The slides use coiled power cords around a metal guide. It is possible the cord is starting to wear. Don't know, but it is something simple to check.
Good thought, it is. 295E, and both rails have cords coiled around them. I will look again closer, but first look a while back they looked okay.
You may want to call the factory and ask them what the problem could be. They are very helpful. # is 1-800-766-6274
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