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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  Modifications and Accessories

 > Adding second A/C to travel trailer - which one?

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mblanks2

Central Virginia

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Posted: 05/10/12 06:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just completed the mod you are describing. I went with the Mach 3, though. Since I was going to run a separate wire to connect to the pedestal then as long as it was under 20AMPs, I was OK. Got the Mach 3 for a considerably lower price. It's not ducted but I did tie it into my thermostat for control. Turned out great and didn't have to upgrade to 50 AMPs.

TexasATM

Ft. Worth

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Posted: 05/10/12 07:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah, the Mach3 is $100 cheaper. I always just assumed that I should get the lowest power A/C available, but the Mach3 only pulls 14.3amps, so I guess it would work fine, right? Nothing wrong with saving $100 AND getting a more powerful A/C. I guess the lower powered units would work well in a single 50amp trailer when everything is running at once, or when running on a generator?

Anyhow, what kind of trailer do you have? Do you have any pictures of your install? Have you used it yet since the new A/C?


2011 Jayco 32BHDS


chuggs

Florida

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Posted: 05/11/12 05:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

IF and when I add the second a/c to our 30 amp 5th wheel...

I'm going to put a 20amp inlet box up inside the pinbox.

From there...run conduit to the garage area where there will be a 30amp breaker/disconnect for the a/c circuit.

From there...run up thru the interior wall to the attic...and over to the a/c unit.

I'll make a double female ended connector cord...one short with a generator plug at the end...and a longer one with a normal 20 amp plug at the other end.

I can use the long one at the campground when hooked to a power pole...

I can use the short one if I'm boondocking in a warm climate...to cool down the bedroom off a small generator.

It would be possible to run the generator in the back of the truck when towing as well...if we wanted to precool the 5th wheel before reaching the campground...but that's really not probably something I'll do.

I thought about upgrading my rv to 50 amps...but this method gives me a little more functionality when I'm staying places without 50 amp service.

CruisinFred

Long Island NY

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Posted: 05/15/12 01:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would not recomend a portable AC unit. It sends room air over the condensor and blows it outside. This is a high CFM airflow which gets sucked from outside. It will be running nearly continuously and just waste energy. You may want to look into a ductless minisplit unit, there are some very high efficiency units.

bartlettj

Forest Grove, OR

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Posted: 05/15/12 06:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In general, the physically larger units are more efficient from a power pulled versus BTU supplied standpoint- more area over the coils means better cooling for a given amount of input power. The smaller units are intended for popups and tiny trailers and are packaged for form factor, not electrical efficiency.

esscobra

on the road

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Posted: 05/16/12 02:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have similar unit, 320rlds, converted to 50a service never been happier, can run everything without tripping breakers or hot plugs even during the summer, pm me if you are interested in converting im in san antonio, will simplify your hookup with the second a/c

* This post was edited 05/16/12 02:59am by esscobra *





mblanks2

Central Virginia

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Posted: 05/16/12 04:07am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Been trying to post. Not having any luck. Seeing if this works.

mblanks2

Central Virginia

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Posted: 05/16/12 04:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I can't post anything more than a few words, what's going on?

spike99

North America

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Posted: 05/16/12 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Instead of adding a 2nd AC unit, why not simply remove the underbelly materials, side sheeting and replace the factory "useless" fiberglass insulation with 2 lbs Close Cell Spray Foam (contractor grade) insulation.

If wondering, I removed the factory fiberglass and replaced with much better Spray Foam insuluation under my Jayco TT. Spray Foam "locks" onto anything it touches and has R7 per inch. Before and after comparison of 3.5-4.0" of spray foam on our trailer is amazing. For picture, surf: - Click Here -

IMO, all RVs need to have Spray Foam - instead of useless fiberglass within their walls, ceiling and underbelly. re: - Click Here - If you a DIY person, forget the 2nd AC. Simply make your existing RV have better insulation using Contractor Grade Close Cell 2 lbs (medium density) Spray Foam...

Something to think about...

bartlettj

Forest Grove, OR

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Posted: 05/16/12 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The most important place to have insulation is in the attic. I doubt adding insulation to the underside will help him enough to keep from needing a second A/C unit, unless he makes a habit of parking on a lava field. It helps more in the winter to keep your toes and tanks warm.

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