D.E.Bishop
Eagle Rock, CA
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Joined: 08/09/2001
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Joe,
The good news is that is easy simple and either the ABS to a Tee or to a knockout will work. The precautions about chemicals are real, I will on occasion use a deodorant in my tanks if the weather is really hot or if the rig will sit for a couple of weeks before dumping and I always use a biodegradeable, non formaldyehyde one. I have dumped in a lot of septic tanks and never had it overflow the cofferdam and send solids into the leach field, personally I'd like to hear that from seventeen septic engineers and not maintenance folks.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson
David Bishop
1990 Bounder 27D
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Francesca Knowles
Port Hadlock, Washington
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Joined: 02/23/2011
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WyoTraveler wrote:Francesca Knowles wrote:One note of caution:
Be careful about the kind/amount of chemicals used in the RV's that you allow to dump in your septic tank. Many of the chemicals folks use contain formaldehyde, which is by design deadly to bacteria. And your septic system DEPENDS on bacteria to function properly! A "slug load" of heavily chemicalized waste can stop the system's biological process, and recovery may take some time- if it recovers at all without being pumped out.
I don't think you can even buy the formaldehyde chemicals anymore. Possibly still available. I haven't used them for a lot of years.
RV tanks can be managed without adding any chemicals/treatments at all and many folks do just that!
But for those that do use "treatments", it's best to know what's in them, especially if one's dumping into a small onsite system like the O.P.'s.
Here's a link to a PDF on the subject of what to watch out for, and why: Dumping RV Tanks into onsite septic systems
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien
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Johnworth914
USA!
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Joined: 04/27/2012
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WyoTraveler wrote:rrupert wrote:Not to spoil your idea, but you have to be careful with emptying into your septic system. Mainly, if you allow a large rush of waste into the septic tank, as it would be dumping the RV tanks, you run the risk of pushing solids out of the septic tank and into the leach field. A septic isn't designed for the sudden flows much larger than the flush of a toilet which is only about three gallons or less at a time.
I suspect that is why they put baffles in septic tanks. Input is usually on one end on either side and output is on the other end beyond the baffles.
Not only that, but the bathtub can dump 30 gallons of water all at once, as can the washing machine.
As long as you give your system the proper mainteance-including periodic pumpouts to remove solids, you should have no issues.
I did mine by adding a tee to the septic pipe leaving my house and running it to where I park my motorhome. I put a small concrete aprom around the dump pipe to contain and small leaks... BUT I must say-- I do not use chemicals in my holding tank. If you use formaldahyde based chemicals you might think about switching.
Alaska is next! Still trying to fit the pontoons to the RV so We can get to Hawaii!
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morley
British Columbia
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With the 30 to 40 foot of elevation change over a distance of 100 feet that you are talking about I would think that you would need a thrust block of some sort at the location where you "T" or "Y" into your existing 4 inch septic line. You could get quite a velocity hitting the main line after that run and fall.
Concrete thrust blocks are placed at most fire hydrant junctions, changes in piping directions, etc. for the same reason.
2008 Topaz F254SS 26 ft.
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Deetour
Washington
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Joined: 06/01/2011
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morley wrote:With the 30 to 40 foot of elevation change over a distance of 100 feet that you are talking about I would think that you would need a thrust block of some sort at the location where you "T" or "Y" into your existing 4 inch septic line. You could get quite a velocity hitting the main line after that run and fall.
Concrete thrust blocks are placed at most fire hydrant junctions, changes in piping directions, etc. for the same reason. Not a bad idea at all. A 40' drop could generate up to a 20# hit.
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JCasper
Hillsboro, OR
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Joined: 05/09/2007
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Wow, I am excited to see so many posts.
I would be very careful about the chemicals used and check anyone that would be dumping in to my septic. It wouldn't be a regular basis, just every once in a while.
As to the elevation drop, I will chat with a local septic guy and also my plumber to see what they may recommend.
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PatrickA51
Lost
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Joined: 04/05/2012
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Interesting posts, thanks for all of the valid points posted.
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korbe
Northern California
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Joined: 11/20/2009
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I would tie into the existing sewer line as far away from the tank as convenient. IMHO , accessing the tank via a knockout is not the way to go. You should install a "Y" and not a "T" at the tie in. If you have any other angled runs, you should install clean outs at those locations.
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JCasper
Hillsboro, OR
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korbe wrote:I would tie into the existing sewer line as far away from the tank as convenient. IMHO , accessing the tank via a knockout is not the way to go. You should install a "Y" and not a "T" at the tie in. If you have any other angled runs, you should install clean outs at those locations.
Originally there was 1 line from the house to the septic with a cleanout before the tank and right outside the house. When we added on to the house we used a Y and tied in to that line, there is a cleanout right outside the house on that run also.
I meant to say Y as that would work the best for this scenario.
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ctpres
SAN BERNARD RIVER VALLEY, Needville , TX
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Did research before connecting to our septic. 1. Geo method or nothing 2. Bought "Sewer Solutions" that allows me to use 1" PVC for a more regulated dump 3. Much easier installation with 1" pipe 4. I can use it anywhere on the road - even uphill a couple of feet 5. Any guest can use it on just about any RV. 6. What I saved in sewer pipe and fittings for two RV connections (ours and guest) almost paid for Sewer Solutions!
A "Retired" Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste
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