After using my new AF1150 4 times here in Texas, I've noticed one thing that kind of bugs me: Is there no way to run the air conditioner so that it cycles on and off??
It seems to be set up so that the fan is always on even if the compressor kicks off. That results in a whole lot of air being thrown at you while you're sleeping.
(After sweating to death in my old 5th wheel, which even 2 air conditioners couldn't cool, I never thought I'd be complaining about too much air, but this is pretty breezy)
Even if you turn the little directional vent to the closed position, it really will blow.
The only option I've come up with is to partially close the privacy screen at the foot of the bed.
Has anyone else encountered this and if so how'd you deal with it?
The vents on the ac are aimed at the front and rear of the coach.
It's pretty typical for the all manual units, some of the units with a wall stat will switch to low fan speed when set point is reached. The other reason for the fan to be blowing on high is for the condition of high humidity to help prevent icing of the evaporator coil.
gitpicker2009 wrote: After using my new AF1150 4 times here in Texas, I've noticed one thing that kind of bugs me: Is there no way to run the air conditioner so that it cycles on and off??
It seems to be set up so that the fan is always on even if the compressor kicks off. That results in a whole lot of air being thrown at you while you're sleeping.
(After sweating to death in my old 5th wheel, which even 2 air conditioners couldn't cool, I never thought I'd be complaining about too much air, but this is pretty breezy)
Even if you turn the little directional vent to the closed position, it really will blow.
The only option I've come up with is to partially close the privacy screen at the foot of the bed.
Has anyone else encountered this and if so how'd you deal with it?
The vents on the ac are aimed at the front and rear of the coach.
anthony
nature of the beast.closing the curtain is about all you can do.
Mine was the same way. I went out and replaced the control module and thermostat
You cvan then run the AC and it will completely shut off when temp is reached
This is right from Coleman. Cost around $120 including shipping to do this
You would need to install a control box (part number 8330-752) into the air conditioner to communicate with the thermostat (part number 7330G3351. You will need to run four wires to the control box from the thermostat, and supply the thermostat with 12 volts DC from the coach.
Steve and Joy
1999 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom
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K - Here's your solution, if you want to tackle it and you're good with wiring.
MOST if not all home AC's by now already do this---They call it the "Economy mode", it just basically means the fan is only running when the compressor is running. This is how they do it, and how you can safely make your own "Economy Mode".
The compressor is controlled by a relay off the thermostat. Pop the cover on the roof, you'll see a couple wires going to the compressor motor. Underneath on the inside, you'll also see the control wires for the fan motor.
You'll need a volt meter for this part, and a double throw, single pole switch from Radio Shack or any auto store.
First - On the selector switch, determine which wire runs the fan low speed mode off the selector switch, and cut it, leaving enough length on each end to allow you to splice a new piece of wire on each end.
Next - up top on the roof, with your meter, determine which wire feeds the compressor it's hot, splice into it--do not cut that one, just remove enough insulation off the wire to solder/tap a wire into it.
The wire going TO the fan motor, wire it to the center pole of the switch. The wire FROM the fan switched power, to one side, and the wire you tapped into off the compressor, the other side.
What you've done is created an either-or switch. Flip the switch to one side, it runs as it always has, the other side will run the fan motor on low on and off with the compressor.
And before anyone gets all uppity on me about current ratings and what not, just hold on. The fan on low draws next to nothing, around 1 amp@120v. The compressor wire you tapped into on the other hand, has a surge start around 20 amps. Tapping into that wire to run the fan on low will not hurt the wiring.
Your problem is solved the way you want it.
**Disclaimer - if you're not good with a meter and wiring, don't try this at home, have an electrician do it**. I just happen to be an Electrical Engineer....
funny but at home we have a ceiling fan over the bed that is always blowing air at night. I enjoy it so have the AC blowing air on me in the TC feels absolutely normal.
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big whitey wrote: with the noise from the on/off start ups and the co$t i would prefer to just shut the curtain,but thats just me.
Cost???
$4 bucks for a switch at Radio Shack.... It's one of the cheapest mods you can do to a TC.
if you are not an EE, which i am not or comfortable wiring, etc which i am not,hence the reference to cost as often labor is much more than parts.i do confess that i had/have no idea what the cost would be for parts/labor for the mod but i am confident it would not be free.as i stated before not worth the co$t for something solved easier by closing a curtain. i would compare repeated start up noise from the AC to that of the furnace,unacceptable(i use a wave 3 for the most part)and find the noise generated when the compressor kicks in preferable to the on/off of the AC unless it has the much quieter central air with ducts.just personal preference.
How about making a deflector that fits between the shroud and the ceiling to direct the air coming out of the vents downward. Make it bigger than the little directional vents on the AC. Then during the day you can let it blow into the overhead to keep it cooled down before going to bed.
I agree with Buzzcut1, we almost always have our ceiling fan on over the bed at night so in our past campers the air never bothered us. I did use the vent adjustment some.
Butch
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