aliceinanthemaz
Anthem, AZ
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Joined: 05/12/2012
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I'm new to owning a motorhome and I need some advice. My engine battery drains enough after just 1.5-2 weeks storage that I have to use the emergency restart. I've checked a thousand times and I'm not leaving anything on. I've taken it in to the dealership because it is still under warranty but they don't find anything except a very small drain. They recommended a trickle charger. My question to the more experienced RVers, is this kind of drain expected in that short of time? I just want to make sure if there is something that I get it addressed under warranty. But if it's normal then I want to stop bugging everyone. Let me know your thoughts, thanks!
2011 MVP Tahoe 23QB
Diagnosed with wanderlust at an early age
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old guy
Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)
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Joined: 03/15/2006
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you do have a drain, but what I'm thinking that would be a big drain should drain your house batteries not your starting battery. that would be your detectors for LP and CO2
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j-d
Sunny Florida USA
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All I can figure is some accessory that's normally "house" (and turned off when you use the house battery disconnect) is wired to the chassis. Either that or something wrong with chassis.
We had an old 1984 Class C that didn't even have a house battery disconnect. But it also didn't have an LPG detector. Anyhow, it could sit for months without discharging the house or chassis battery.
Current RV (Signature...) has a battery disconnect and when I shut the house battery off, that coach can sit a couple months and both batteries stay up.
So I suggest you pursue this under warranty if you're sure you shut everything off.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
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mm047
Green Valley, AZ
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Your power step is a battery drain. In some cases your powered radio antenna, like Sirius is a drain. I imagine the slide out is too.
If your rig doesn't have a battery disconnect, get one installed and use it religiously.
Mile M.
2008 Winnebago View 24J
2010 Mercury Mariner
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Harvey51
Alberta
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It is easy to measure; you could check it yourself as you leave it. Unhook one battery cable, then put the multimeter on its highest current range (usually 10 Amps). Connect the battery cable through the meter to the battery. Then lower the current range until you can read it. If the reading is 100 mA, then in two weeks it will draw 34 Amp-hours which should leave enough for a start.
I have seen a vehicle draw 20 times that much due to a short in the under hood light. Finding it may involve pulling fuses one at a time while watching the meter.
If the current is under 100 ma and you can't start it after two weeks, you probably need a new battery. I can leave a vehicle for a month in winter and it still starts.
2004 Adventurer (Canadian) 20 footer
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi,
Another solution is a small solar system to replace the energy that is being used by parasitic loads.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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RvBill3
Collinsville, IL
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Ours sits for 2 weeks at a time and has no problems starting off the chassis battery. I would pursue under warranty. House battery without disconnect will deplete but chassis battery should not.
2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy
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NewsW
US
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Measure the current draw.
Here are the norms:
Sleep load is around 100 to 200ma
First power on is about 1-2a (when you connect the battery) and should settle down to sleep load around 5 minutes into it.
If the parasitic load is any higher than 300ma measured 15 minutes after you last "wake" it, you got a problem.
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YC 1
Yuba City Calif.
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Unfortunately yes that is a very very common issue mentioned on the rv forums. Engine and transmission computers, clocks, steps, propapane detectors and other things can easily run an engine battery down in two weeks. This can lead to a sick battery from being depleted low and several times.
The solution is a battery cutoff switch, which can be a pain because you lose radio stations and often engine computers learn your driving habits.
My H3 Huummer sits a lot and when driven the trips are short. I installed a small $29 charger under the hood and have the power cord dangling in front of the radiator. It is a smart charger so won't damage the battery.
On my Winnebago I had solar panels but they were set up to charge the coach batteries. I installed the trik-l-start device that tapped off a bit of current from those and kept the engine battery up. Before that I actually just soldered a 12 volt tail light in series with the two banks of batteries and used alligator clips across the terminals. The bulb limited the current between the two batteries and did a great job. I just removed the bulb when ready to go.
You can chase all the parasitic drains you want but two weeks is not unusual and you will do yourself a great service if you buy a battery tender type charger and connect it to all your batteries.
H/R Endeavor 2008
2013 Ford Edge toad
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jbarry
California
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I had the same issue, and discovered that if I leave the "radio" switch on chassis, rather than house, it eventually drains the chassis battery...probably because the clock display is on all the time. When I toggle that switch to "house", the chassis battery doesn't drain anymore.
This is on a 2004 Winnie 324F.
Jim
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