Beverley&Ken

Tottenham,Ontario

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Joined: 08/22/2006

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crimmps49 wrote: TY--the previous owner had quite a few things that it looks like he tried to do himself. This plug has the threads pretty worn off, so we will look for a new plastic one. Anyone know where to pick one up?
Any RV store or possibly Walmart will have them, also check the RV department in box stores or the campground store. Two pack on an orange card may $5.00 .
Beverley and Ken
2006 Winnebago Outlook 29B E-450.
2012 Honda CR-V AWD
Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar and Brake Buddy Vantage.
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Dutch_12078

Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

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Joined: 10/07/2008

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Beverley&Ken wrote: crimmps49 wrote: TY--the previous owner had quite a few things that it looks like he tried to do himself. This plug has the threads pretty worn off, so we will look for a new plastic one. Anyone know where to pick one up?
Any RV store or possibly Walmart will have them, also check the RV department in box stores or the campground store. Two pack on an orange card may $5.00 .
Beverley and Ken
You can also use standard CPVC 1/2" pipe plugs from any hardware store. About 50 cents each.
Dutch
1995 Coachmen Catalina 322QBXL
F53 chassis, 460 V8, TST TPMS
Quadra Bigfoot EZE Levelers
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate
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down home

south

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Joined: 06/01/2008

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Like another reply use teflon tape on the plug. Even using a new nylon plug. I always carry a spare. never use another metal including aluminum on an aluminum tank or for that matter any other metal.
Galavonic corrossion and mineral build ups cause problems. Another reason to filter all water going into the rig.
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allen rvtech

chilliwack bc

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Joined: 03/28/2012

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USE A BRASS PLUG IF YOU WANT,REMEMBER TEFLON.
OR BETTER YET GO GET AN ANODE ROD PLUG TO STOP ELECTROLASIS.AND YES THEY MAKE THIS PLUG OUT OF STEEL WITH THE ANODE ATTACHED TO IT
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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Joined: 01/05/2005

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Anodes are not necessary in the aluminum Atwood tank.
It is best not to use any type of metal into the tank.
Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow
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wolfe10

Texas

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Joined: 10/08/2000

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allen rvtech wrote: USE A BRASS PLUG IF YOU WANT,REMEMBER TEFLON.
OR BETTER YET GO GET AN ANODE ROD PLUG TO STOP ELECTROLASIS.AND YES THEY MAKE THIS PLUG OUT OF STEEL WITH THE ANODE ATTACHED TO IT
Let's see:
Atwood does not recommend anodes and does not sell them (if they did they would sell them as an additional profit center).
Steel(hard)threads screwed into Aluminum tank(soft)????
Electrolysis is a galvanic reaction between different metals. With an aluminum tank and nylon drain plug, the only metal is that found in the water-- an infinitesimal amount (hopefully).
Brett Wolfe
1997 Safari Sahara 3540
EX: 1993 Foretravel 36' U-240
FMCA Forum: www.community.fmca.com/index
Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
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1fastdad

mo.

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The problem with a metal plug of any kind is the build up of material on the threads that extend into the tank will damage the threads in the tank when it is removed. These materials do not build up on nylon plugs.
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mlts22

Austin, Texas

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Joined: 11/15/2010

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If the water heater is an Atwood, no way I would ever use an anode rod. I've heard of too many happenings of it fusing to the threads (requiring replacement of the water heater), and other nasty items.
A Suburban water heater which is a porcelain lined steel container is a different beast altogether. That does require an anode rod to ensure the tank doesn't get eaten away.
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crimmps49

Wisconsin

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Ours is an Atwood and does not have a rod. Hubby found a plastic plug as the threads were stripped/worn on the old one. Couple wraps of teflon tape and all is good now. TY
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paulcardoza

Southeastern Massachusetts

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Grainger has a 10 pack of them for $4.50
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THOGUS-Plug-1VTH7?Pid=search
Paul & Sandra
New Bedford, MA
2003 Monaco Executive M43 DS2
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