What about your rear axle weight compared to the RAWR? This is an important consideration. If you are exceeding the RAWR you are on dangerous ground IMO. Those who are telling you it's just fine, don't be concerned, have no stake in your families safety. Do the rest of your homework and then decide if you want to do it.
Please correct me if I am wrong! I am assuming RAWR is Rear Axle Weight Rating. The tag on the drivers door lists the GAWR as 6010, and I am at 5660. So, I think I am good there and am hoping to lower it somewhat by adding the bags to shift more of the weight to the RV axle.
Again, please correct me if I misunderstood what RAWR meant!
You are correct sir. If you are under the RAWR you can ignore my concerns. I personally do not exceed GVWR but that is a little different than axle weight ratings, front or rear.
OP sounds like me some years ago...wished I had come onto the forum before blowing good money on a truck that was lacking in towing weight capabilities and a 5er that was too heavy for it...A lesson learned, and a hard one to me....
Sounds like the OPs truck is ok from what I'm reading others saying in here...only thing when you go pass your trucks GVWR and start eating into the RAWR, your taking a margin of safety with you...
Airbags will level the load and that's about it, but will level the truck out with the load and keep you from bouncing to some extent.
You've got a brand new truck and a new rv, so I figure your not planning on taking a big hit and getting rid of either and, like me, sounds like you did your doing your homework now, just a tad late....The Dodge salesman is an idiot and so was the guy who sold you the 5er, but it's too late to do anything about that....I'd just take your time when towing, allow for stopping distances, keep truck and trailer tires aired to proper psi..
Are you towing a 5er? I may have gotten the wrong idea, but got the impression you are towing a 5er...if not, I would think a TT being towed could be leveled with WDH....
If it's a 5er, what is the GVW of the unit?
Jim & Kathy
2013 Dodge 3500DRW Longhorn 4X4/CC/LB/Aisin tranny/4:10/Cummins: 385HP/850TQ
06 HR Presidential Suite 37RLQ/ 4 slide/ dual pane windows/Winegard SK3005 Satellite/Splendide XC2100 W/D
Boxers;Buddy& Sheba II
USAF 71-75 Nam Vet
First you said your max GVW was 9,000, you need to know your max CGVW, This is often higher.
That said There are those who hold to the factory GVW rating as an absolute limit, I believe that the factory rating takes into consideration the variations between the first, and second, and third, and may be a bit low, However that said, You are pushing even what I consider the limit.
Now... Google "Trail Hauler" there is a company a few links down that has the perfect truck for you to tow with, Trade your dodge in one one of theirs and you will be right happy with the job it does. (OK so it's a Freightliner with an RV package) COmpany has an odd name LIke 4 or 5 letters long.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
"The GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) is 20,000, which I am actually close to and will probably end up going over as well."
The GCWR of my truck is 18,000. See my post on the first page.
As long as you don't overload your tires, I don't think you have much to worry about.
Towing at more than a ton and a half over the GCWR didn't bother my Dodge in any way.
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
Man I just looked up the specs on the trailer. You need a dually. A 3/4 will haul the dry weight of that trailer, but loaded to the trailers GWR it will be dangerous. I have a 3/4 Dodge, and pull a 32 FT fifth at about 11.6K lbs. I wouldn't want to go much more on a SRW truck.
You can get better braking by using ceramic brake pads and slotted rotors. You might want to consider using DOT 5 brake fluid as it has a higher boil point than the regular fluid does. Most definitely put synthetic 75-140 in the rear end.
My brake controller says to adjust the brake power until they just start to lock up when braking at 25 mph. Then back off till they dont. Watch that all tires try and lock up, and not just 1 or 2 of them. Balanced braking is a good thing.
Weight the axles separately to make sure the tires are loaded equally with weight, and make sure the tires are balanced on a spin machine. Unbalanced tires can get hot pretty fast at speed.
And remember, screaming loudly helps the horn when the brakes fade.