In my limited experience the wind will work the hook and loop loose. The hot/cold cycles will loosen the adhesives you may use to apply it. (This could be eliminated, by sewing and using rigid backed loop strips. perhaps stapled to the wood).
Mostly I'd have to think it relates to reinventing the wheel? The old factory method worked fairly well. At least I thought so in my 20 odd year old Coleman. I had a 1976 in mid/late 90s. I bought it privately and took it to the dealer to pick up a new faucet. The parts man said the canvas was original.
So unless there are other problems/brands, etc involved. I'd take it back to original method of installation. My screens were starting to Dry Rot, but I just used Duct Tape on both sides to keep the bugs out. At that time Coleman wanted $600 and change for new canvas, and some additional to install it of course.
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
I made an enclosure for my Pontoon Boat some years ago. It worked OK, I sewed the strips on and used loops to suspend the walls which were a combination of clear vinyl and marine white vinyl. If the wind blew, the panels would start to separate at the hook and loop joinery.
I tried some adhesive on the windshield attachment area on another boat, with more Limited success. Initially the adhesive looked/acted good. However the hot/cold, cycles loosened it fairly quickly.
As an aside I had to more than double the anchor deployment. I had made, it seemed a tremendous sailboat.
It was great as long as the wind didn't blow too much. (The wind NEVER blows in Colorado. But the adjoining states are said to Suck, however).
If you want to pursue this project. I used to get hook and loop in 25 yard rolls, either black or white. From a Drapery Supply outfit, by mailorder.
My Starcraft 14RT already uses a little of VELCRO strips to draw the bottom seal tight when setting up. This was the first thing to go sour on me after about two years. The VELCRO mounted to the metal strip of the POPUP lost it's sticky. I replace it with standard stock velcro strips from local hardware and it never would last long. The sewed in VELCRO stips on the fabric still do just fine.
I also put in those 2-inch square by 30-inch long foam pieces they sell at Lowes/Walmart for putting in the gap in the house windows when you are using a window air conditioner. This works out like gang busters going around the whole bottom the tent ends where you have the small stretch rope that loops around stand-offs to keep the bottom sealed from weather.
Having these air condition foam strips inplace really helps with the seal and keeps crawly things out as well. My pull out bed floor design could have been done better by Starcraft as before adding these foam pieces I could lean over and look where the floor meets up with the walls on both ends and see daylight. I have all of that sealed off now and in good shape there.
Now if I could come up with something to cover the metal u-shaped roller path allowing the wood bed floor to roll in and out I have it all covered. Mine gets very cold during the winter months when camping. It transfers in the outside temp very good. Momabear usually covers them with a towel. Maybe some trailers have a cover you use for them after you setup as all POPUP trailer must use this same idea for the tent beds to roll on when being setup.
You can see the TENT BED RAIL in this photo left center above the cabinet top. It gets VERY COLD to touch when it is cold outside.
photo from google images
* This post was
edited 05/21/12 06:28am by RoyB *
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS