pepdav
London, Ontario
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This past weekend my water heater started to boil over thru the relief valve. Not a few drops, more like pouring a kettle. I went and got an T-Stat/ECO kit (part # 91447) and replaced it. Turned it on, waited and it boiled again. It is an Atwood GC6AA-10E 6 gal gas/electric heater. We never use the gas side, just the electric side. Any ideas, tips to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated.
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fla-gypsy
North Florida
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What was the T-stat set at? It may be time to replace the pressure relief valve if water was not more than 130* and it was pouring out. Have you tried emptying it and refilling to establish an air cushion?
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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If the WH actually overheats and the TPO valve has to relieve pressure, it melts a small wax part inside it. After this it must be replaced.
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rv2go
Fulltime (Knoxville, TN).... or someplace else
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The relief valve does go bad. I had to replaced mine once. Might need to replace yours.
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ScottG
Bothell Wa.
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Before replacing the TPO, check the temp of the water. If it's too hot it will just ruin the new valve.
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C-Leigh Racing
Nashville NC
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I read some time back, normally the water heater not suppose to fill completely up with water, a small void at the top of the tank where the relief valve is located & by that the relief cant leak water out.
This be true I dont know, but makes since if not water in that area.
Our old GBM leaked when on electric & even went as far as installing a new relief valve, a house type & it still leaked. That was before & read about the void being needed inside the tank.
I do know from back during my plumbing days, your not suppose to open that relief valve by hand, like if your filling or draining a water heater, because it has an affect on the rubber seal of the valve & will cause it to leak.
Neil
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RLS7201
Some Where
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Dave, this link should help you trouble shoot your problem. I suspect the relay is stuck in the closed position.
Richard
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pepdav
London, Ontario
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The t-stat is preset. no adjustments. the t-stat and eco both look the same- like a thermal overload round disc with 2 wire tabs. I'll have to check the actual temp when it boils over and I'll check the relay. I appreciate the help guys!
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fordsooperdooty
Southern California
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I agree with re-establishing the air gap inside the tank.
Hot water expands and needs to go somewhere..and the air gap in the tank acts as a "buffer" for the expansion of the hot water.
Otherwise, the water will vent out the relief valve. Drain the tank and refill it. That should take care of it. Also, make sire to open the relief valve (when the water heter is off and cool) to make sure the spring in the valve is working properly.
Note that the valve is actually called a "T&P valv"e...Temperature and Pressure Relief valve.
T&P
While your at it...pull the drain plug and flushout the tank...the flakes of sediment can clog the relief valve too.
My posts shouldn't be taken for factual data. They are purely fictional, for entertainment purposes and should not be constituted as actually related to scientific, technical, engineering, legal, spiritual or practical advice. Amen. 
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pepdav
London, Ontario
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Here's where I'm at...
Drained off water from tank as per manual to create air gap in tank. Turned on heater and let it heat up. After a short while water started dripping slowly out of the pressure-temperature relief valve then as it got hotter it came out faster till it was a slow pour. With my digital thermometer I checked temperature of water coming out of relief valve. Slow pour into cup measures at 106F. I am thinking it is simply a bad relief valve. Anyone with another opinion or idea?
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