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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes

 > over heated & Broke down, update now in Flagstaff

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Grillmeister

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Posted: 06/07/12 07:08am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

GREAT!! NEWS!! Thanks for letting us know.


Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!


chaffeekid

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Posted: 06/07/12 10:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can bet I will pay a lot more attention to the water temp gauge in the future, as I have basically the same engine.

Hey Wiz, with the rebore and larger pistons, at least you should have an extra pony or two

Glad you are back on the road, albiet a little lighter in the wallet area.

Good luck in the future.

Happy Trails
Jim




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Posted: 06/07/12 01:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Wiz
What is the break-in procedure or is there one ??

MPond

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Posted: 06/07/12 05:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

stardalo wrote:

One thing we have to take away from this is to change your overflow tank if its spider cracking. I did mine a few weeks ago as it was begining to weep when hot. Such a simple thing costs under $125 can turn into an expensive nightmare.


Absolutely. I plan to check mine later tonight when I get done with work.


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sjholt

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Posted: 06/07/12 06:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You can temporary repair that spider webbed overflow tank with JB weld and wallboard fiberglass tape(on the football style overflow tank). Done that on a trip.
Replaced it when I got home.


Skip
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Posted: 06/07/12 02:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One thing we have to take away from this is to change your overflow tank if its spider cracking. I did mine a few weeks ago as it was begining to weep when hot. Such a simple thing costs under $125 can turn into an expensive nightmare.

MrWizard

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Posted: 06/07/12 08:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Admin wrote:

Wiz
What is the break-in procedure or is there one ??


check the oil level everyday until rings are seated change oil at 3000miles

i have tried to keep my speed around 60mph , speed limit has been 75 for most of the journey so far, not easy to hold the speed down when those 18 Wheelers pass you doing 70 MPH

* This post was edited 06/07/12 09:05pm by MrWizard *


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Dale.Traveling

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Posted: 06/07/12 08:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

George,

In the year or so I've been following the Class A forum I think your posting has received the highest number of replies at 216 and 14802 views at this moment. The only item missing is you haven't posted to the Break Down thread.

Thanks much for keeping all of us up to date on the repairs and post repair performance. I suspect a lot of us, gasser pilots and diesel drives, are taking a hard look at our cooling systems and being a bit more proactive and what we might consider minor repair/replacement items.

Happy trails,
Dale


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Airstreamer67

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Posted: 06/08/12 03:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, thanks for the post MrWizard. I used it as a reason to install a low-pressure warning light and buzzer in my coolant system. It might save me some pain some day, and it's always nice to get a new gadget in one's life.

As noted in an earlier post, one has to learn the characteristics of the low-pressure coolant alarm. Like the air pressure in an air brake system, it takes a while to get the pressure up. I have found it takes about five to 10 minutes of running to get the light to turn off, ie, for the cooling system to reach the three psi level to satisfy the pressure switch. After that, the light stays off until the pressure drops under the three psi threshold, like it would should all the coolant be lost in the system.

Since I also installed a buzzer, I put a switch to turn off its noise until the light turns off at 3 psi. Then, I flip the switch to activate the warning buzzer.

Hopefully, if I lose all the coolant in the future, my $25 alarm "system" will let me know before the engine overheats.

MrWizard

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Posted: 06/09/12 08:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Arrived safely at our destination in Indiana today
No problems engine ran great all the way

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