You can bet I will pay a lot more attention to the water temp gauge in the future, as I have basically the same engine.
Hey Wiz, with the rebore and larger pistons, at least you should have an extra pony or two
Glad you are back on the road, albiet a little lighter in the wallet area.
Good luck in the future.
Happy Trails
Jim
MGySgt USMC(R) 61-91
N0LZS
Wife, has put up with me for 49 years
Three hyper chihuahua's
Good Sam a pound rescue, Sassy and Bambi
2001 Fleetwood Expedition Diesel Pusher
Toad 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab 4 X 4
One thing we have to take away from this is to change your overflow tank if its spider cracking. I did mine a few weeks ago as it was begining to weep when hot. Such a simple thing costs under $125 can turn into an expensive nightmare.
stardalo wrote: One thing we have to take away from this is to change your overflow tank if its spider cracking. I did mine a few weeks ago as it was begining to weep when hot. Such a simple thing costs under $125 can turn into an expensive nightmare.
Absolutely. I plan to check mine later tonight when I get done with work.
2003 Country Coach Intrigue, Cummins ISL 400
Toad: 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) toad, with just a few mods...
Other rig: 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Duramax Dually / Next Level 38CK Fifth-wheel Toy Hauler w/ quads, sand rail, etc...
You can temporary repair that spider webbed overflow tank with JB weld and wallboard fiberglass tape(on the football style overflow tank). Done that on a trip.
Replaced it when I got home.
Skip
1996 32' Monaco Windsor DP
Cummins 5.9L 230+ HP
5 Airbags in front- 4 in back
Admin wrote: Wiz
What is the break-in procedure or is there one ??
check the oil level everyday until rings are seated change oil at 3000miles
i have tried to keep my speed around 60mph , speed limit has been 75 for most of the journey so far, not easy to hold the speed down when those 18 Wheelers pass you doing 70 MPH
* This post was
edited 06/07/12 09:05pm by MrWizard *
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother ....
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In the year or so I've been following the Class A forum I think your posting has received the highest number of replies at 216 and 14802 views at this moment. The only item missing is you haven't posted to the Break Down thread.
Thanks much for keeping all of us up to date on the repairs and post repair performance. I suspect a lot of us, gasser pilots and diesel drives, are taking a hard look at our cooling systems and being a bit more proactive and what we might consider minor repair/replacement items.
Happy trails,
Dale
2006 Hurricane 31D aka 'Moby' the Whale
FCC(SW) US Navy Retired 1980-2003
Stella my Navigator
Bogart the All American RV Dog
and
Cocoui waiting for me at the Rainbow Bridge
Yes, thanks for the post MrWizard. I used it as a reason to install a low-pressure warning light and buzzer in my coolant system. It might save me some pain some day, and it's always nice to get a new gadget in one's life.
As noted in an earlier post, one has to learn the characteristics of the low-pressure coolant alarm. Like the air pressure in an air brake system, it takes a while to get the pressure up. I have found it takes about five to 10 minutes of running to get the light to turn off, ie, for the cooling system to reach the three psi level to satisfy the pressure switch. After that, the light stays off until the pressure drops under the three psi threshold, like it would should all the coolant be lost in the system.
Since I also installed a buzzer, I put a switch to turn off its noise until the light turns off at 3 psi. Then, I flip the switch to activate the warning buzzer.
Hopefully, if I lose all the coolant in the future, my $25 alarm "system" will let me know before the engine overheats.