rfuerst911sc
Marietta Georgia
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Joined: 12/19/2011
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I picked up my used Avion last year and I'm now getting around to checking out some of its systems. It has a larger than OEM Norcold refrigerator that operates on electric and LP. The previous owner just slid it into place it is not hard mounted if that is a clue. Yesterday after determining that I have 110v at all outlets I plugged in the refrigerator and set it to electric and turned the temp knob to the coldest setting. I didn't hear anything come on but not sure that I would. After one hour I touched the aluminum cooling fins on the interior of the fridge and that were not cool not even a tiny bit. So how do I troubleshoot a fridge ? Or should I just bite the bullet and buy another one ? If buying another one I'm sure the technology has changed a lot what is the scoop on RV fridges ? I plan to use campgrounds and boondock so the option of 12v, 110v and LP would be appealing.
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chuggs
Florida
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Joined: 06/16/2010
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Your right...you really won't hear anything. The dometic cycle heats a solution of ammonia, water, and a rust inhibitor in a hydrogen gas enviroment. The rust inhibitor is chromium sulfate, I believe. It's pretty much silent. About the only thing you'll hear...is a 12v fan on some units...that blows(sucks) air across the external fins of the unit on a thermostat.
I've been told it can take 24hrs for some units to get cold.
I would try GAS too... IF one or the other cools the fridge...then the coil is working. You just need to find out why the other heater isn't working. If neither work...then your really having to do some trouble shooting.
I would say...if there is a flame...and you're not getting cold witin 24 hrs...there is a possiblity that the unit has a blockage or there is a leak somewhere. The chromium sulfate will cake up if allowed to pool somewhere in the lines...that's why it's so important to level the unit when operating it. The exception being traveling down the road --- where the vibration alone will keep things moving. A pin hole in any of the lines will allow the pressurized hydrogen to leak out.
They make replacement cooling units...if you want to keep your existing fridge --- or you can replace it with another unit altogether.
You Tube slideshow on cooling unit replacement
If you just not getting heat...then it could be a component or control board not working.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Joined: 12/18/2004
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Hi,
Make sure there is twelve volt power as well as 120 volt power. The fridge needs both to function. I precool for six hours. The freezer part will cool first.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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rfuerst911sc
Marietta Georgia
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It is very possible the fridge has not been used for years. I'm going to plug it in to 110v for 24 hours to see if that does anything. Currently I don't believe the LP line is hooked up the camper did not come with LP bottles. That is on the list of items to purchase. The camper is level front to back and side to side per all the bubble levels mounted on the outside of the camper.
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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Hot wiring test will let you know if the cooling unit is functional since it by-passes all the electronics and need for 12v.
If properly done very bottom coils will heat up UNLESS the heating element is defective. It it works and your lower box is not BELOW freezing after being shut for 48 hours running 24/7 then you have some hardware and/or install defects.
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NRALIFR
Truck Camping Out West
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Joined: 11/27/2005
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Since that's not the original fridge, a model number would be helpful, and year of mfg if you can find it.
When set to AC mode, there's a 120v heating element in the back above the area where the LP flame would be that should get hot. The element itself is usually not visible, as it's under the insulation pack around the chimney. But, you should be able to find the power leads to the element, and trace them back to their connector. Using a volt-meter you can determine if correct AC power is getting to the heating element.
If it is (+ or - 10%), then turn the power off, unplug the leads going to the element and measure the resistance of the heating element. If the element is "open" or infinite resistance, the element is bad. The resistance should also NOT be zero, this would indicate an internal short. The resistance will probably be somewhere around 40-50 ohms.
To determine what the correct resistance should be, the formula is: Voltage squared divided by wattage, for example (120 x 120) / 350 = 41 (again, + or - 10%).
If you're getting correct voltage to the heating element, and the resistance of the element is correct, you SHOULD be putting the correct amount of heat into the cooling unit to see some cooling out of it. If it doesn't get cool, I'd suspect the cooling unit is bad.
2001 Lance 1121 on a 2010 F450
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narcodog
Georgia
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Joined: 04/02/2006
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Drive up to Ringgold and have Camping World check it out.
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sundowners
suffolk UK
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If the heating element does work, but fridge does not cool (after some time)-----it would be worth removing fridge (IF you can) and park it upside-down for a few hours----maybe the 'gas' just needs some help to get going-----then put upright again and re-connect 12 & 110v-----a new 'fridge is very expensive, and anything is worth a try
Good luck------I can't help thinking that a dud one has been slotted in (maybe good one taken out ????????)
Nigel & Pamala------Suffolk UK
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ticki2
NH
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Joined: 07/09/2008
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Once you determine the model number here is a good site with service manuals and trouble shooting.
http://bryantrv.com/docs.html
'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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Well first Id give it more than an hour to 'feel' any cooling on interior fins, Depending, ours can take considerably longer before cooling is noted on transfer fins. 1st to 'feel' cool usually would be inside bottom of freezer.
Just repeating others..if doesnt cool Verify power both 12v and 110v as noted then test the heater as NRALIFR outlined. The ohm range may vary with differnt heaters but will quickly tell you if its good. (an inexpensive multi meter and learning how to use will make stuff like this easy). I would be replacing last resort, they are not cheap. Whether you fix or replace next on the list is mounting-. Too bad you dont have propane to check.
Mark
01 Ford 250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page
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