Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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Joined: 08/21/2010
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Put other chores aside today and got motivated to start installing the PV system on the 5th wheel.
Went with Two Unisolar PVL-124w panels in parallel being the Rogue's max 60v. Got a good deal on the panels with local pickup and stick down install was simple.
I hope they are far enough from the AC units to avoid shading. Might be an issue early/late in the day where it's parked at home facing North/South.
I checked the panels before installing and each showed about 38.5 VOC in full sun.
I ran #8AWG from the combiner box to the controller, removed the vent pipe chase enclosure in the bathroom and ran the wires to the basement. 18 feet one way. MC3 cables and Strain Relief fitting from Solar Blvd should be here this week to finish the 4-5 foot run from the panels to the combiner box.
I thought about skipping the combiner box and running #10 MC3 cables straight to the controller, but this was cheaper and 2 cables were easier to run then 4.
The two panels are <8 amps. I have room to add one or two more PVL-124 panel up front if I find it's needed.
Mounted the Rogue 2034 controller above the battery box. Wiring to two 6V GC batteries will be about 36" #4AWG with an inline DC fuse.
40a inline fuse
Should I put a fuse or disconnect from panels to the controller?
Also are the brass battery crimp connectors pictured below OK? OR
is there a better connector?
Hopefully I can finish the install Thursday and be up and running by Friday when we leave for the M.D. weekend. (and put the vent chase enclosure back up in the bathroom)
It'll be nice to cut down on Genny's runtime.
Please feel free to offer opinions and advice. Thanks!
* This post was
edited 05/20/12 10:09pm by Jersey Shore *
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smkettner
Southern California
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I prefer tinned copper for battery lugs. Since you are in a rush use what you have. Leave 3" to cut and replace if you are later inclined or have corrosion. I think GC2 has a 5/16" stud, lug looks 3/8"? or maybe the picture.
Skip the panel switch-fuse unless the controller calls it out. Again leave some slack to add later if you are inclined.
That looks like one looong clean roof. Those panels are perfect. Should work well for you. 
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
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Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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Thanks, ...your right, just checked and they are 5/16". No loss, I found them in one of the many coffee cans around the garage full of nut's/bolts, fasteners, fittings, etc. Back they go. Any idea where to find the tinned #4 3/8" connectors? Grainger? Marine Store?
I guess hard work pays off. Spent last weekend scrubbing the roof, cleaning bird crap, the dreaded black streaks, and waxing. Not as much enjoyment as the PV install.
I'll cover the panels when I connect everything and go "live"? Panels say "Do Not dissconnect under load"
The Rogue manual doesn't say in which order to connect the wiring (PV first or battery first?), only says to hook up the temp. sensor and batt. voltage sensor before powering the unit.
* This post was
edited 05/20/12 10:12pm by Jersey Shore *
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smkettner
Southern California
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I buy my supplies here when I can:
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/
If you cut power to the battery the panels will not be under any significant load. It is just standard precaution as the connectors are good for 600v and 30 amps 18,000 watts. Not going to matter much on an RV.
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pianotuna
Regina, SK, Canada
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Hi,
I think you will love having solar. My unisolar panels are the best upgrade I've made on my RV.
You did a super job on installing the panels.
Regards, Don
Kustom Koach Class C 28'5" 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 2500 MSW watt inverter.
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cruz-in
Southern Maryland
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Hi Getting ready to do just this install. A couple of questions:
1) How did you clean/prime the roofing surface prior to sticking down the panels?
2) You mentioned "MC3 cables and Strain Relief fitting from Solar Blvd should be here this week to finish the 4-5 foot run from the panels to the combiner box.", could you eloborate on the strain relief or provide a link?
Thansk lots...
* This post was
edited 05/21/12 06:05am by cruz-in *
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Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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Thanks again SMK and Don. I enjoy reading your posts here and learned enough to tackle this install.
Cruz-in said......
Hi Getting ready to do just this install. A couple of questions:
1) How did you clean/prime the roofing surface prior to sticking down the panels?
I scrubbed the roof with spic-n-span and water (4-1) as I do every spring.
2) You mentioned "MC3 cables and Strain Relief fitting from Solar Blvd should be here this week to finish the 4-5 foot run from the panels to the combiner box.", could you eloborate on the strain relief or provide a link?
I JB welded bus bars to the bottom of the box. The #8 + and - going to the controller is hooked up and comes out the bottom of the box and down the vent chase to the basement. I screwed and dicored the box in place. I'll get a picture when I open the box to finish the connections.
The MC3 cables are for the extra run to the box. I ordered 2 MC3 cables and will cut each in half and screw the bare end to the + and - bus bar in the box. I'll drill two 1/2" holes in the box for the strain relief fittings for a secure water tight seal.
Here's the links....
1/2" strain relief fittings with 2 #10 holes
MC3 cable
* This post was
edited 05/21/12 09:40am by Jersey Shore *
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smkettner
Southern California
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Just so you are aware... when I bought the two hole strain relief two different sizes were sent. One seemed to have larger holes for maybe #8 wire. The insert is either black or white and I cannot recall which was which. I only had one on the roof so it was not a big deal for me. If the wire seems loose... ask for the other one. Or it may not be a big deal.
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Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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I ordered the one with two #8 holes. We'll see. No package from Solar Blvd today.
The fuse came today and I found the tinned 5/16" lugs at the marine store, so I made the battery cables tonight.
I noticed the red #4 pos wire is fine stranded, and the black #4 neg wire has coarse strands. All good?
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mena661
Southern California
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I don't see a problem with that.
2009 Newmar Canyon Star 3205, Ford F53 V10
Trojan L16 6V's 740 Amp-hours
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