djousma
SW Michigan
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Joined: 06/16/2004
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Ok, home from camping. Still not fixed. Did drain the HWH, and verified that there are NO one-way valves on either the cold input or hot output.
As a test, i closed the Cold water valve to the HWH, and turned on the Hot water faucet, and nothing came out. This test was to ensure that the bypass valve(which is closed) was not leaking.
I'm leaning towards the fact that the one way valve on the water pump is slowly leaking back into the fresh water tank. Allowing hot water to backup into the cold line. The taps for the kitchen cold, water pump, and HWH cold supply are all within about 12" of pipe.
There is nothing else it could be at this point.
I have a new diaphragm on order.
'04 Layton 2940 30' GVWR 9900#
2011 F350 Lariat 4x4 FX4 SRW CC SB 6.7 Sterling Gray Metallic
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MitchF150
Washington, the State
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Joined: 07/13/2002
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I'll bet if you check how your water lines are run, you'll find that your hot water lines run along side your cold water lines at some point after they come out of the WH. Heat is then transferred to the cold water line and you have warm water coming out of the cold water facet.. Well, that's what happens in my rig..
I don't have any bypass setup on my water heater, so no check valves and I get this out of my rear bath sink and that's where the WH is as the lines run right next to each other...
Mitch
*Anything I post is for entertainment purposes only and what usually works for me.. Your Mileage May Vary.. 
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djousma
SW Michigan
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MitchF150 wrote:I'll bet if you check how your water lines are run, you'll find that your hot water lines run along side your cold water lines at some point after they come out of the WH. Heat is then transferred to the cold water line and you have warm water coming out of the cold water facet.. Well, that's what happens in my rig..
I don't have any bypass setup on my water heater, so no check valves and I get this out of my rear bath sink and that's where the WH is as the lines run right next to each other...
Mitch
Thanks Mitch.
I don't feel like that is the problem as I have had the trailer for 8 years and this is something new. Thanks for the idea though.
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MitchF150
Washington, the State
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Humm... Yes, it's gotta be a check valve that's allowing the hot water to back flow into your cold water side...
I've heard there are HW bypass systems that do not use check valves?? I think there is a few more valves involved, but I'd rather deal with that instead of a check valve...
I've thought about a bypass system myself, but after 10 years with my trailer, I've not really found the need...
Good luck with the diagnosis!
Mitch
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djousma
SW Michigan
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MitchF150 wrote:Humm... Yes, it's gotta be a check valve that's allowing the hot water to back flow into your cold water side...
I've heard there are HW bypass systems that do not use check valves?? I think there is a few more valves involved, but I'd rather deal with that instead of a check valve...
Good luck with the diagnosis!
Mitch
Thanks Mitch.
That's the funny thing. There are no check valves on the HWH or the connecting pipes. I have the simple 3 valve bypass system for winterization. I pulled the connections to the tank to make sure.
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loggenrock
New Hampshire
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Hi - think I might have an answer - at least this is my issue... Does the water line to the faucets run near the back of the fridge? Mine does - so the water in the line heats up where it sits near the fridge - so I get a couple seconds of warm water from the cold tap each time... ST
Two and a hound in a 2003 Roadtrek 190P and a pair of Limmers...
First 50 done, working on the second pass!
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djousma
SW Michigan
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Just wanted to report back. Still have not found the cause of the problem. Separated hot/cold lines, as they were touching. Didnt make a difference.
My next step is to install a backflow preventer on the cold-side. I'm thinking there must be/was one in the hot water tank. I had drained the tank to do some repairs, and when refilling it, thought I heard something metallic clanking in there. Its an Atwood HWH, so there is no annode rod.
I'm thinking there must have been some sort of one-way valve on the cold side that may have stopped working, or fell apart.
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glorio
Madisonville, LA, USA
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Joined: 08/20/2004
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I would install a check valve on the cold water fill
for the water heater. I replaced a one way valve for
less than $10.00 . And by the way it was plastic and it
was a 90 degree fitting.
hope this helps.
less is more
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djousma
SW Michigan
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thanks glorio.
thats exactly what I did, however it was brass, and not an elbow. Works like a champ again now. I am still confused. There must have been a one-way valve built-in to the tank that broke. Never had the problem in 8 years until now.
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glorio
Madisonville, LA, USA
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Maybe your water pump has weakened a little over the years and does not
produce the same amount of water pressure.
Just a guess
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