Guys, I was a lurker for a while on this forum before bying my 2008 Keystone Challenger. Now I've had it for a month and steadily fixing small things the dealer should have fixed as well as making my own alterations. I apologize for the wordy questions.
The shower leaks somewhere around the glass framing, the framing to floor pan junction, and possibly the surround to pan overlap. I've been cleaning up the "nastiness" left behind by the P.O. I've' still not isolated the leak source but I'm sure I will soon enough. The question is one of sealing it off once located. Can silicone be used to seal the glass, the frame-to-pan, and the surround to pan overlap area?
Another shower question concerns the shower door. It is 'off-kilter and I can't get the shower door to close properly because it drags across the bottom too much. Until I can correct this the shower will never be able to be used. I took the frame corner reenforcements loose to try to "rack" the frame but it was of no real help. If I could raise the door it would be of some help. I can't find a way to remove the door. The pivot pin doesn't seem to be able to be removed either. The shower frame seems to be assembled in such a way the nothing can come apart w/o removing the entire shower glass enclosure. Anyone have any ideas to try?
Now a roof question. The P.O. had the primary roof replaced, reason unknown. I was washing it down yesterday and found evidence of two staples lifting up from the underneath sheating. One is about 1/4 inch high and the other about 1/2 inch. It's only a small matter of time before the staples poke through the roof membrane. This will obviously be leak sources. What is the proper way to prepare and then treat this coming damage location? Razor through the membrane, remove the staple, then apply an Eternabond patch??
answer to question 1: the shower leaks, seal all joints with a water proof clear/color match silicone sealant, anywhere glass meets tub and plastic meets plastic.
#2 ?
#3 I would pound down the staple and let it be for now and check in a month, if u use trailer, and see if it stayed in place, second /last resort would be to cut and remove staple and patch, what is staple holding down
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klawklr650 wrote: Guys, I was a lurker for a while on this forum before bying my 2008 Keystone Challenger. Now I've had it for a month and steadily fixing small things the dealer should have fixed as well as making my own alterations. I apologize for the wordy questions.
Can silicone be used to seal the glass, the frame-to-pan, and the surround to pan overlap area?
Many have used silicone products with success but they just don't seem to work very well for me. I would use a urethane sealant...something like 3M 5200.
Another shower question concerns the shower door.The shower frame seems to be assembled in such a way the nothing can come apart w/o removing the entire shower glass enclosure. Anyone have any ideas to try?
Someone else will have to offer suggestions with this question! I have installed shower stalls in my home. As I recall those doors had pins that rested in a plastic fitting which the door would pivot on. If I lifted the door up, the pin would come out of the fitting and I could remove the door.
Now a roof question. What is the proper way to prepare and then treat this coming damage location? Razor through the membrane, remove the staple, then apply an Eternabond patch??
I had this happen on our previous rig. What I did was rather than cut the EPDM, I simply pushed the staple through the rubber roof, cut it off and covered with Eternabond. Seemed to work great and no leaks.
Best Wishes!
ken
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I would be a little leery of using 3M 5200, from what I have heard, that stuff sets up very tough and is almost impossible to remove once set up. You might consider the 3M 4200, I think it works pretty well with water situations and doesn't set up so securely. The folks that have boats have told me on a couple of boating sites that the 5200 sets up like steel while the 4200 works almost as well as is a bit more user friendly after setting up.
Silicone is great for glass and metal, but does not chemically agree with the flexible material shower pans are made of. It will start to turn loose in a year or two and then will be nuisance to remove from the shower surround edge and prevent proper bonding of a sealant made for the job like "DAP Tub & Tile caulk" or similar. Now you have several answers, so pick the one you like best.
For the shower door, as a last resort, consider trimming the plastic wiper across the bottom if your's has one.
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I'm a huge believer of Dycor, So as far as the staple,, put a board against it,,hit with hammer, will hopefully bury staple an not disturb membrane if it does hit with dycor. I have used Dap caulking a few times for leaks in shower track.
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Thanks guys for the help. I was not aware of problems associated with regular silicone adhering to the flexible plastic associated with the shower pan. I certainly don't want to be re-doing the repair in a year because the seal job didn't hold. I'll be looking into additional sealant options.
So far as the shower door, it will not lift free of the frame. I could trim the wiper at the bottom of the door but the door still drags across its bottom frame.
The staple is just bothersome. I hate the idea of purposelly putting a home in the roof but I don't see anything preventing it. Even if I use a board to cushion the hammer I believe it'll still force the staple throught the EPDM mat'l. But...maybe I'll be lucky. Lots of people like the Eternabond patches. I watched an Eternabond video yesterday and it made me wonder why it wasn't used for all seems and screws.
Well, more planning. Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming if you have them.
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