Lyrikz
kirkland
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Joined: 04/18/2011
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Lyrikz wrote:Y-Guy wrote:I wouldn't say it's a lemon to the adjuster. If the adjuster thinks the problems came from the factory they will deny coverage.
The problem didnt happen from the factory from what the shop is saying. The crimped line was a different rig. Basically the water pump line split and leaked for a full week.
It is a lemon though.
Path, the insurance is cutting me a check for 14k. So im going to fix it myself. So if you would like to stop by and give pointers im all ears.
My only concern is dropping the black/and gray water tanks. The other three tanks appear very simple to remove.
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armdrag
WNY
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Joined: 11/14/2011
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Good Luck on your repairs. My advice is to get air on that wet wood and insulation. I used a Hot Water Heater Blower on mine. got it from a plumber friend of mine. It takes 2" fittings and you can hook up a shop vac hose to it. IT DOES NOT TAKE LONG FOR THAT OSB TO DISINERGRATE
I have a lot of pictures on how I am repairing mine if you are interested.
I feel your pain
Ken
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Lyrikz
kirkland
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armdrag wrote:Good Luck on your repairs. My advice is to get air on that wet wood and insulation. I used a Hot Water Heater Blower on mine. got it from a plumber friend of mine. It takes 2" fittings and you can hook up a shop vac hose to it. IT DOES NOT TAKE LONG FOR THAT OSB TO DISINERGRATE
I have a lot of pictures on how I am repairing mine if you are interested.
I feel your pain
Ken
Ya, im getting all the insualation out asap. its the insulation between the wood and metal. thats going to be tough. I have a big propane heater i will be using also.... its getting the tanks out im worried about.
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Lyrikz
kirkland
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Well, an update. Got the trailer back the other day. Went in and located all the gray water connections and black water connections. Spoke to a forest river technician and he walked me through how to remove them.
Connections are all undone, and it was fairly easy. I still have to undo the vent connection on the black tank.
When i start feeling better im hoping to have them out and get to tearing into the insulation.
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TxTiger
North Texas
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Joined: 08/01/2011
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Good luck on your repairs. The $14k helps lessen the pain. If you can do everything yourself you should come out very good.
2000 F250, 7.3 PSD, 6 speed manual, CC, SB
KZ 27TH Toy Hauler, 5,700 lb dry weight/8,000 lb GVW.
2010 Triumph Tiger 1050
2012 Triumph America
2009 Suzuki DRZ 400sm
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Lyrikz
kirkland
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TxTiger wrote:Good luck on your repairs. The $14k helps lessen the pain. If you can do everything yourself you should come out very good.
Yep. the osb is marine grade also. So thats good.
The black tank is unhooked. I figure the only things i need to buy are some insulation, and some plastic to go over the insulation. Some sealant to seal it up...
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nayther
Burbank, CA
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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did you find the source of the water leak?
DIRT BIKES RULE
'12 Duramax CC short bed
'06 3005 Rage'n Falcon
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Lyrikz
kirkland
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nayther wrote:did you find the source of the water leak?
Yes, it was comign out of the hot water heater whenever i would hook up to city water. So with just the water pump, there was no issue, but with hooked to city water it leaked.
They fixed that part.
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mapguy
Puget Sound
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Joined: 09/02/2007
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Wow -what an ordeal you have had with this trailer. Sorry Baydos and FR haven't been very "stand-up" in this whole process. Glad your insurance carrier is covering the loss. Sounds like a lot of work is in your future. Not all real difficult -mostly time consuming. Any OSB that shows water damage needs to be removed.
Consider using commercial spray foam (Contrator Grade Close Cell - 2 lbs / Medium Density) or sheet foam board like the Formular 250 to re-insulate. these products don't wick up moisture like fiberglass batts. Also, consider that marine plywood -although a bit heavier than structural treated OSB resists water much better long term.
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Lyrikz
kirkland
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mapguy wrote:Wow -what an ordeal you have had with this trailer. Sorry Baydos and FR haven't been very "stand-up" in this whole process. Glad your insurance carrier is covering the loss. Sounds like a lot of work is in your future. Not all real difficult -mostly time consuming. Any OSB that shows water damage needs to be removed.
Consider using commercial spray foam (Contrator Grade Close Cell - 2 lbs / Medium Density) or sheet foam board like the Formular 250 to re-insulate. these products don't wick up moisture like fiberglass batts. Also, consider that marine plywood -although a bit heavier than structural treated OSB resists water much better long term.
There doesnt appear to be any damage anywhere. Just wet marine grade osb.
i was thinking of using the sheet foam.. Then putting at cover over that and sealing that up.
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