Welcome and suggest you hurry and weigh your setup axle by axle
There are lots of things you need to check out and re-adjust or learn HOW2 on whatever
Here is a picture of my buddies 2007 GMC DMax Crew's receiver label, which yours should
also have and be very similar
Not a really good image, but if you look at yours too. You will notice that there
are two ratings for that receiver, as there are for all receivers
The 'dead weight' is the upper and max's out at 7.5K lbs and 1,000 lb tongue
For 'WD' (weight distribution hitch system) is the lower and max's out at
12K lbs and 1,500 lb tongue
Also recommend changing out that GM receiver to a traditional design and that
cost around $150-$200 for the receiver and about 1 hours labor. Buddies
has bent upwards and he is anal about how much he knows more than
anybody else. He won't let me take another picture of his after trying
to point out that his receiver is bent up...
Just getting a WD Hitch system does NOT complete the sway system. There are
additional components to a WD Hitch system (dependent on the OEM and model)
There are no 'weight police', as there is no policing on any Internet forum.
It is just a way for folks who want to do whatever and come looking for the
'sure you can', etc...and if they don't hear what they want to hear...make
a derogatory reference to the 'weight police'...I proudly and gladly
take those derogatory references to my advice (only give the metrics
for the OP's to figure it out themselves....rarely if ever do I
say your are good for it, etc)
Then that brings the topic of ratings and whether you believe in them or not
If not, then do whatever. If yes, then find them for 'your' setup. Learn how it
works and go out and weigh your setup, axle by axle
Here is another image to show you how the whole 'ratings' system plays together
in concert. Most just take any 'one' rating as gospel (absolute), but by itself
is out of context that this image will show how they work
Good luck and ask tons more question.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
It sounds like you do not have enough tongue weight or something is broke in the undercarriage/hitch system. have you tried loosening the WD bars a little to put more weight on the rear of the truck? You can go too far with WD and it will affect handling dramatically
So Benk I'm laughing as I read your post LOL or lmao. So I've been all over this forum and even printed out the image below but I will state this if it ain't draggin your ok. Nothings broken but I do want to try coming off 2 chain links from my blue ox the reason I started at 7 links left dangling then went to 8 and it was worse at 8 so i will go to 6= dialing it in. If you look back at my posts I bought the truck used with no owners manual and a member found it on line and it has all the scales your buddy does not have 4:10 gears I bet. please check I'd hate to be wrong. The input everyone gives is well recieved I wish not to come off cocky. I really do appreciate all the advice.
Ron Gratz wrote: tekman741, do you still have the OEM receiver on your truck?
If so, is it bent up or does it bend up when load is applied to the WD bars?
Have you had any problem getting the desired amount of load transfer to the steer axle?
Ron
I do have an oem receiver and I had a mechanic who tows a lot check it out. Plus he's our cousin, it's just this week he's out in the woods hunting.
Steering is fine the tell all is when I can get to the scale. My TT has a lot of storage in the rear and I plan on moving some stuff forward plus adjust my WDH to a lower setting ( less weight moved on the front more on the rear axle of TV.
Also adjusting the wd bars so more weight is pushed forward I still do not see that truck move it sits flat.
Remember what I wrote the TV and TT pulls great until i hit 60 mph, I can get up to 70 no problem but as soon as I coast at speed above 60 I get sway, if i speed up it goes away, then slow down it goes away, tap the break it goes away.
tekman741 wrote: So Benk I'm laughing as I read your post LOL or lmao. So I've been all over this forum and even printed out the image below but I will state this if it ain't draggin your ok. Nothings broken but I do want to try coming off 2 chain links from my blue ox the reason I started at 7 links left dangling then went to 8 and it was worse at 8 so i will go to 6= dialing it in. If you look back at my posts I bought the truck used with no owners manual and a member found it on line and it has all the scales your buddy does not have 4:10 gears I bet. please check I'd hate to be wrong. The input everyone gives is well recieved I wish not to come off cocky. I really do appreciate all the advice.
Sorry, missed your comment that you do have a WD Hitch system....scan
reading too often...
Bottom line is to WD enough weight off the TV rear over to the front
to get the front back to where it was before hooking up, +/- a bit
The trailer should be level at it's highest pointing and I like them
slightly pointed down. That has it follow much better
Take anything heavy you own and put it in the front of the trailer. Make sure you are way tongue heavy and go for a drive.
The way my trailer is built I'm right on the edge. When my old lady packs and puts everything including the kitchen sink in the rear of the trailer I can get sway. If I take that stuff and put if up in the front of the trailer it's like magic; no sway at ALL.
I have a product trailer that has 0 tongue weight and that thing can wag my 2500 diesel like it is a rag doll at anything over 35 MPH.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~
"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"
I've had an 8K trailer wag my 12K dumptruck with no tongue wt on it!
Hence why I have the same opinion as MM, if you have sway, you have an issue that needs fixing, THEN attach the bars! Otherwise, you should be able to tow upwards of 70-75 mph with out a hint of fishtail sway frankly!
As others have said, you are probably nose high, or to low of HW, or a combo there of.
Marty
05 Chev CC D/A LS Dooley
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
00 Chev C2500, V5700, 4L80E, 4.10, base truck, no options!
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
3 Single axle utility trailers
Can't play with it this weekend but maybe next. I did move stuff up front plus I always wanted an extra battery now i have an excuse. I totally agree with running with no wd and should be no sway. I do like it when it's dialed in, it makes the TV/TT handle a little better. thanks for all the input it helps.
The funny thing is somebody else with the same truck, hitch and trailer combo might have no sway at all.
And a different identical truck with the OP's trailer might have no sway at all. Or the OP's truck with a different identical trailer might not sway at all. So what is different with some seemingly identical rigs, when they should handle identically? It must be a very small difference that is hard to discern. Yet, obscure as it is, it must have a major impact on handling.
And what is the matter with the OP's rig? Same thing perhaps. Either the truck or the trailer.
Wes
..
Days spent camping are not subtracted from one's total.
- 2000 Excursion V-10 - 2004 Cougar Keystone M-294 RLS, 6140# tare
- Hensley Arrow - Champion 4000w/3500w gen
- Linda, Wes and Quincy the Standard Brown Poodle
...
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