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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > bought an "as Is no warranty" camper with water damage

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Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 05/31/12 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey you are not the only one who bought an RV with a roof or window leak.

First get the leak stopped. The rest you can live with if it does not try to fall apart on you.

Note to all buying used RV's. They all have leaked, do leak and or will leak. Only buy at a price based on it being a leaker period.

spike99

North America

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Posted: 05/31/12 09:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

.

I had a simular situation in the past... For me, I could either "battle" with my insurance company or "battle" with my dealer. And in the end, I knew they would only fix to "minimum" factory build. And, factory build is too low (cheap) for my liking...

If it was my TT and discovered a water leak "somewhere" in the bedroom wall area, I would simply:

- Apply EDPM Liquid Rubber Roof on the Roof. re: - Click Here -
Note: Being an older age trailer, I'd recoat the top side roof with liquid rubber - even if it wasn't the root cause of the leak. Especially if I plan to keep the TT for many more years.

- Remove all factory windows and re-seal them. re: - Click Here -
Note: Being an older age trailer, I'd remove / reseal the windows anyway - even if it wasn't the root cause of the leak. Especially if I plan to keep the TT for many more years.

Now... Fixing its insides....
- Remove inner cabinets (where the inner wall has water).
- Remove inner paneling - to expose raw studs within that entire room. For example, entire front bedroom area.
- If needed, replace (or sister) with new 2x2 wood studs. For best results, install NEW 2x4 "blue wood" studs (studs that are chemical treated / used for basements) and rip them into 2x2 size with a table saw.
- If inner wall studs are normal 24" spacing, simply install more 2x2s verticals - to create much better 12" spacing. Use PL Premium to glue new vertical sheeting. Use steel 2" "L" brackets on top and bottom of 2x2 studs to lock in place as well. If horizonal wiring in the wall, simply create 1/2" U grove - for horizonal wire path.
- Apply Close Cell spray foam - instead of replacing fiberglass batts.
Note: For best results, hire Spray Foam Contractor and ask for Closed Cell - 2 lbs / Meidium density - the full thickness of the inner 2 x 2 vertical studs. To view Spray Foam being installed within a Sprinter Van, surf: - Click Here -
- Apply "new" paneling. Pick the cosmetic design that looks best to you.
- If needed, remove bad flooring materials and apply new flooring in that area as well.

Note: You'd be amazed how Contractor Grade Closed Cell 2lbs / Medium Density spray foam "locks in" the materials it touches and its superior R value. If wondering, my TT has Contractor Spray Foam. Seeing 1st hand, that stuff is amazing. We'll worth the cost. Especially for a small area - like TT bedroom area.

As stated above, I woundn't waste my time or cost fighting dealers and/or fighting insurance companies. I'd simple repair "better than factory build" and enjoy the pride behind my restoration results. And for me, I'd also use the restoration opportunity to teach my son - on how RVs are built and how they can be restored the proper way.

.

Artemus Gordon

Redding California

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Posted: 05/31/12 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"Caveat Emporium"


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Fabguy

Auburn, Washigton

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Posted: 06/01/12 12:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There is STILL something called "implied warantee"... Meaning that if you can prove that the seller covered up damage that he knew about you can take action against him.


Jeff


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RandACampin

Kathleen, Georgia

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Posted: 06/01/12 03:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unfortunately as is means as is. When buying anything the term as is you should tell you something...now you know. Hopefully it's an easy fix fo you.

wannavolunteerFT

South Georgia

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Posted: 06/01/12 04:49am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would talk to owner or manager at dealership and be sure he is aware of what salesman told you. You might could use that as a bargaining chip to get the dealer to fix or let you trade for the other one.. with minimal cost difference.. Let him know his salesman is using misleading business practices and could put him and the dealership at risk for legal problems and a bad reputation/rating with BBB

Johnworth914

USA!

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Posted: 06/01/12 05:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smkettner wrote:

michmade wrote:

or bought the other one I was deciding between.

Don't give reason. Just tell them you changed your mind and would like to swap for the other one. Might be worth a minor doc fee if they go for it.


If the dealer "knew" there was water damage and lied, they are not likely to offer to take it back. It was sold AS IS.

I agree with the other poster who suggested you find the leak and dry it out before you assume you are screwed. Many campers have leaked in their lives and have gone on to provide years of service.

As for mold. You can have that in a camper that exhibits no apparent signs of leaks.


Alaska is next! Still trying to fit the pontoons to the RV so We can get to Hawaii!


mking

Indianland,South Carolina

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Posted: 06/01/12 06:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My thought is if they explained the way you described what you seen in the back of the TT then they knew something was not quite right.But not getting it in writing and buying as is,its going to be practily impossiable to get them to fix it.If its metal structure inside the walls then the fix want be to bad.If its wood then it could get deep.On our 06 TT I had a leak on the slideout.I found the leak in a seam on the roof,fixed that,and then tore out the whole wall on the slideout.My TT has alu framing so no structure damage.I spent appox.$150 on paneling,screws,glue,foam insulation,and etc.and it took me appox.30 hours to repair by myself.You can't tell it was repaired.Like others have said if you own a R/V sooner or later your probley going to have a leak,and surely going to have too fix something that breaks.Good Luck on your problem.


2006 Dodge Quad-Cab 2500 CTD,4;10 gears,pulling a Forestriver Flaggstaff 831qbss

WyoTraveler

Northwest, Wyoming

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Posted: 06/01/12 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

as is is just that as is. Except. Some states require dealers to cover all safety equipment such as brakes, lights, seat belts etc and cannot be sold as is for those items. Leaks, falling apart? I think you are on your own. I'm betting the dealer will say it was sold as is and he didn't say anything about the warped area.


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morgj

VA

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Posted: 06/01/12 06:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

it depends on what your definition of "as is" is to coin a phrase. But in my case, if I bought something "as is" then that is what it means if I did not do due diligence beforehand.

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