Consider me successfully talked down from the 18" ledge.
Are all of these concerns just as valid for the 17"? To keep the same overall diameter the same, I believe I'd go from 75 ratio tires to 70.
I'll definitely ask around about the stability control. It's still under warranty, so the local dealership is always helpful with random queries.
A few answers to questions from other posts:
- Unloaded on city streets, the 3500 can be pretty rough. It smooths out on the highway and is like butter with a camper hooked up, but we're in between RVs right now and only take one out (my parents' or my inlaws') a couple of times a year.
- i'm not opposed to staying with 16". The main goal is to continue to transition from a fleet look to a private vehicle look.
- my BIL said the price difference for LT tires in 16" and 17" is reasonable ($20/tire)
Thanks a ton for the advice so far, it's really been helping me think through this!
fickman wrote: Consider me successfully talked down from the 18" ledge.
Are all of these concerns just as valid for the 17"? To keep the same overall diameter the same, I believe I'd go from 75 ratio tires to 70.
I'll definitely ask around about the stability control. It's still under warranty, so the local dealership is always helpful with random queries.
A few answers to questions from other posts:
- Unloaded on city streets, the 3500 can be pretty rough. It smooths out on the highway and is like butter with a camper hooked up, but we're in between RVs right now and only take one out (my parents' or my inlaws') a couple of times a year.
- i'm not opposed to staying with 16". The main goal is to continue to transition from a fleet look to a private vehicle look.
- my BIL said the price difference for LT tires in 16" and 17" is reasonable ($20/tire)
Thanks a ton for the advice so far, it's really been helping me think through this!
Be aware that any one with a risk of liability is going to be real quesey about answering questions about a passenger van and mods that affect handling and stability.
Example: Wally I have been to will no longer install wheels and tires that are non-standard size (defined as those not listed on the manufacturer's door sticker).
Having said that, if you are seeking comfort, why are you going lower profile?
Why not keep what you have, but drop the tire pressure to what is required to carry your load (check with tire manufacturer chart)?
Door stickers pressures assume a full load --- and you are not carrying one now.
Your cheapest transition from fleet to private vehicle look is to get some hubcaps!
Door stickers pressures assume a full load --- and you are not carrying one now.
We definitely do this. . . thanks to advice from this forum years ago when I bought my first HD truck. It makes a world of difference in thr ride and evens the wear on the tires.
FWIW, I'm not trying to go "low profile". . . I'm sort of trying to simulate (not necessarily replicate) a conversion look (but not the urban wagon wheel spokes). Most conversion vans are 1500s with what I assume are P-rated tires, but I do see the 2500/3500 vans used from time to time. 17's may be the middle ground of compromise, but I'll still look at 16s. . . just trying to find all of the unintended consequences beforehand and hopefully hear from some of the vanowners who might have gone down this road before.
I'm looking at simple, clean; polished aluminum or chrome wheels that aren't too flashy. Our tires will be due for replacement in the next couple of months, so we'll do it all at once. I'll be staying with a highway tread pattern.
We'll also be changing out the tail light housing from the black plastic to one that is painted to match the body.
Look at some custom rims, prefer aluminum myself, as they will be lighter, less unsprung wt, so better performance etc. If you do go up into a say 17" size, a 245-70-17 should be the same diam, not effect ride height, gearing etc. If you go aluminum with the rim, you my still go a bit lighter overall in tire/rim wt, and be better off performance wise in more ways than one also.
70 series tires of the same width etc than a 75 series, ie the two sizes I have used in the 16 and 17", the 17's will stop sooner, have less sidewall flex when taking off, roll easier, so mpg should go up some. Probably less than .5 mpg. but assuming the same tire brand, type etc. This along with bigger brakes on trucks is the reason you are seeing many rigs with 17 and 18" sizes. MOST are the same diam.
The real issue frankly, is the 16" 245 will carry more than a 17" size will, as there is less air in the tire/rim. I know in the 265 width 75-16 vs 70-16, and LR E 16 will carry 3400 lbs, and 17 about 3200 IIRC. So as long as you are not running down the road at max axel wt/tire ratings currently, going to a 17" 245 would not be a big deal.
Marty
05 Chev CC D/A LS Dooley
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
00 Chev C2500, V5700, 4L80E, 4.10, base truck, no options!
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
3 Single axle utility trailers
Note that you are about to re-engineer the suspension and have to make sure you
understand the various attributes that need attention
Not just wheel dia and rim width (bead to bead...not some of the marketing
where they use outside to outside)
Wheel ratings a min...weight rating and PSI rating.
Valve stems must match the PSI requirement. I like 200PSI on all load
range E or higher tires.
Hub centric or lug centric
Lug nut type and the locks you might consider to protect this investment.
Rim width must be in the tire manufacturers recommendation for 'that' tire
OEO off set must be kept, else the loading on the bearings will change, as will
the steering angles and moments (lever arms). As will steering and
braking...off set one way will have the wheels turn in while braking
and turn out while braking (positive or negative offset to zero offset)
The total weight of the resultant wheel and tire will have an effect on the
unsprung weight and it should be as close to the OEM number as possible. Ride
quality is the main issue, but handling does come into play as if it is heavier
the shocks will have more weight to manage (and wear out sooner if too much
weight is added)
Maintenance can be an issue if you don't wash/polish often. More so if you live
in adverse weather conditions (road salts, etc)
As for the tires, the aspect ratio is what most are referencing when
they talk about sidewall height or a number (85, 75, 70, 60, 55, 50
and so on, which is the aspect ratio)
Here is a link to the best all in one wheel/suspension/tire site found
to date. Go there and read up before you make a purchase, my recommendation...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
I see no reason going to a 245/70R17 would cause any issues. I don't think they will improve the ride any, but the lower aspect ration should improve stability slightly.
Bryan
2000 Ford E350 DRW Wagon (14-pass all captains chairs)
V10 w/ Banks PowerPack, Diablo Predator, 4.56 LS, ~350,000 miles
New Desert Fox in the works!
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