30-Amp? Is this a Three-Way fridge? 76"3" implies that it is in fact three-way. That'd be LPG, 120VAC, and 12VDC for a "keep cool" mode while driving the RV.
If it IS three-way there'll be extra wiring and a square "Bosch" relay near the control board slot but external to the board. There'll be TWO heater elements tucked into the insulation pack above the burner.
That "third" way will help keep the fridge cool on the road. But, it draws tons of amps and doesn't cool as well as the other two modes. If the 12VDC element is shorted, it'll blow the fuse after you start the engine and start driving.
I'd disable that till I finished troubleshooting. Actually I'd simply disable it and not look back. You can get by with a day's trip if you just leave it shut. Carry snacks and drinks in a separate cooler till you arrive at a campsite. OR run it on LPG on the road. Many do that and there's debate about safety. But those who DO run LPG on the road should be sure to turn the fridge OFF for hazardous situations like tunnels and FUELING.
God Bless, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100
The burner tube may also be loaded with fine particles of rust. Check to see if you have a good flame (blue color?). If not, you will have to remove it to dump out the rust (vacuum cleaner doesn't work that well).
SRT
2000 32' HR Vacationer with Banks
1998 Subaru Outback Ltd. 5 spd
Brake Buddy & Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar
FMCA #266040 HRRVC #84109
I had overlooked one important factor: the Tioga was not level side to side. I have had other newer fridges in newer TT's and they were not so particular with them needing to be level. I leveled it and it started to get cold. thanks for the help and sorry to waste everyone's time. I got the water heater going now its on to the furnace....thanks again!!
Thanks for the news and glad it's GOOD! Be careful using the Third Way/12VDC if it's all there and working. If you're on a Ford chassis and it's the small carlike alternator, it's probably about 65A rated. It can produce that for a short while to bring the battery up after cranking, but it'll fail if asked to do more than about half its rating or about 30A for an extended period. On 12VDC that fridge is likely to use at least 15A. Your electronic ignition uses power. So does the dash air condition clutch and blower motor. Headlights if you need them etc.
763 - I'd shut ours off if I couldn't park level stopping for lunch, etc. I used to take it to work the morning of camping trips and I'd put jacks down in th parking lot to level the fridge. Still failed after awhile and I didn't try to repair it again. I say again because it had a rebuilt cooling unit when we bought the coach. Replaced with RM2852, which is why I still have a few 763 parts.
Offline
